It is with great joy that I present you with the pattern for Sophie’s Dream. Everything about this project makes me so very happy! I hope you’ve got your hooks at the ready!!
Sophie’s Dream is created by making 12 Sophie’s Gardens in colourful Whirls, joining and bordering them in Whirlette. Like I have mentioned before: All of the colour-joy without any of the colour-changing work.
If you have seen the Yarn Arrival, the WIP post, or the Reveal post, you will know that my friend and side-kick Jenny Lowman made this gorgeous blanket. I like to keep growing my squares into ‘Universes’, just like I did with Sophie’s Universe and like I am currently doing with Charlotte. While I entertain myself with that, Jenny entertains herself by creating ‘Dreams’ out of the large Squares (much like she did with Charlotte’s Dream).
Just this week, Simy Somer sent me a clip from The BFG by Roald Dahl (oh, do see it if you haven’t yet!). The clip is about Sophie’s Dream.
“Is this why you called it that?” she asked? “No,” exclaimed I, “but how absolutely fitting!”
The BFG was the first book I ever read voluntarily (and in English!). We got it from the library at 10 am on a Saturday. I curled up on a giant teddybear under the table in my bedroom and I didn’t stop reading until I had finished it late that night. It was the start of my glorious love-affair (obsession) with reading.
So, what is Sophie’s Dream?
It tells a story of a little girl. A little chiddler with her whole life ahead of her. With a fambly of her own. Little chiddlers of her own, too, someday. There will be great successfuls and funnies ahead for her, and… truth to tell, just a dribble of despair. Times’ll be hard, times is be soft. Adventures will come and go. But in the end… she remembers the good deeds.
– Sophie’s Dream, BFG, Roald Dahl (clip HERE).
Sophie’s Dream Pattern
© Dedri Uys and Jenny Lowman 2018. All Rights Reserved.
This blanket consists of 12 Sophie’s Garden squares, made using 4 different shades of colour-changing Scheepjes Whirl yarn. It is bordered with a simple popcorn edge (Really Lazy Popcorns), using colours that both calm and elevate the ones in the squares.
Resources
- Add This Pattern to Your Ravelry Queue
- If you would like some support and encouragement along the way, you can join THIS Ravelry Thread.
- **NEW** Paid PDF: I have now created a Paid PDF version of this pattern (English Only, in US Terminology). You can find the PDF in my Ravelry Store HERE or in my Etsy Shop HERE. The PDF includes:
- Materials list for all four colourways/seasons
- Written-only instructions for Parts 1-4 of Sophie’s Universe (forms the Gardens/Squares)
- Round-by-round charts by the very talented Masako Kawahara
- Instructions and photos for layout, joining, and border.
Translations
- Dutch Translation by Dianne Baan from Haakdingen
- Swedish Translation by Ulrika Larsson, Åza Karlsson, Camilla Fredriksson, and Agnetha Magnusson
- Japanese Translation by Masako Kawahara from Crochet Hmmm
**NEW** Colourways
Since I published this pattern, my dear Jenny has made three more Sophie’s Dreams, bringing the total to four colourways – one for each season.
The pattern below is for the original (Summer) colourway. Although the pattern itself will not change between colourways, the colours, order of creation for the ‘Gardens’, and layout will. If, then, you choose to make one of the other colourways, you will need to look at the links below to see which colours to use (and in which order) and how we chose to join them.
You can find instructions for the other three colourways here:
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- Winter
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- Spring
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- Autumn
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- Summer
Materials
Yarn packs for each colourway are available in my Wool Warehouse Shop:
Packs include printed instructions for turning 12 Sophie’s Gardens into this beautiful blanket. The instructions supplied with each pack are specific to the colourway you choose. You can find the individual balls at any of the Scheepjes Stockists HERE.
- Hooks
- 2.75mm crochet hook (Parts 1 – 3 of Sophie’s Universe)
- 3mm crochet hook (Part 4 of Sophie’s Universe and Border)
- 3.25 mm crochet hook (Joining Only)
- Yarn
- Scheepjes Whirl (60% cotton/40% acrylic), 215–225g/1000m/1093yds
- Main Colour 1 (MC1) – 1 ball of Red Velvet Sunrise (764)
- Main Colour 2 (MC2) – 1 ball of Rosewater Cocktail (776)
- Main Colour 3 (MC3) – 1 ball of Key Lime Pi (780)
- Main Colour 4 (MC4) – 1 ball of Blackberry Mint Chip (769)*
- Scheepjes Whirlette (60%cotton/40%acrylic),100g/455m/497yds
- Border Colour 1 (BC1) – 2 balls of Blueberry (854)
- Border Colour 2 (BC2) – 1 ball of Mango (853)
- Scheepjes Whirl (60% cotton/40% acrylic), 215–225g/1000m/1093yds
Abbreviations
US Terminology
Please Note: This is a truncated Abbreviations list. It covers ONLY the abbreviations used for expanding, joining, and bordering the Sophie’s Gardens. The 4-part instructions for the gardens each contain their own abbreviations.
- Ch – Chain
- Dc – Double crochet
- FP – Front post (explained in the pattern)
- Hdc – Half-double crochet
- RS – Right side
- Sc – Single crochet
- Sl st – Slip stitch
- Sp/sps – Space/spaces
- St/sts – Stitch/stitches
Punctuation
* An asterisk indicates pattern repeats. You will need to repeat all the instructions between asterisks the number of times specified. This is a hard-core repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
Square Brackets [] indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between square brackets the number of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.
Parentheses () are used to indicate a group of stitches to be worked in the same st/sp .
Special Stitches
- Standing Stitches – Standing stitches are exactly the same as regular stitches, except that they are made ‘in air’, without being attached to a previous stitch. Start with a slip knot already on your hook and complete the stitch as normal.
Gauge
- At the end of Part 1, your motif should measure 9cm/3.5”.
- At the end of Part 3, your motif should measure 26cm/10.2″
- Each finished ‘Garden’ should measure 32cm/12.6”.
Please make sure that you are working to gauge, otherwise, you will run out of yarn. It is a good idea to make one square and weigh it before continuing (see Making the Gardens below).
Size
106cm x 142cm (41.7” x 56”)
Instructions
Sophie’s Garden
Sophie’s Garden is a square created by following Parts 1 to 4 of Sophie’s Universe (links below). You will need to make 12 ‘Gardens’, three from each of the Main Colours (as specified below). There are step-by-step photo tutorials for each part, as well as very detailed video tutorials.
Pattern/Photo Tutorial
Using a 2.75mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), follow Parts 1 – 3 of Sophie’s Universe for each Garden (see Making Gardens below for colourways):
- Sophie’s Universe Part 1
- Sophie’s Universe Part 2
- Sophie’s Universe Part 3 *Up to and including the Crab Stitch Round.*
Swapping to a 3mm hook, follow Part 4 of Sophie’s Universe:
- Sophie’s Universe Part 4 *Don’t make the Optional Flowers*
You can also find all 4 parts in the Sophie’s Universe Book.
Making the Gardens
Each completed Garden should weigh between 68g and 72g. If your completed Gardens weigh more, you won’t have enough yarn in each ball to make 3 of them.
Gardens A to C
With MC1 and working from the inside to the outside of your ball, make 3 squares, labelling them A, B, and C in order of creation.
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- Sophhie’s Garden A
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- Sophhie’s Garden B
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- Sophhie’s Garden C
Gardens D to F
With MC2 and working from the inside to the outside of your ball, make 3 squares, labelling them D, E, and F in order of creation.
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- Sophie’s Dream D
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- Sophie’s Dream E
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- Sophie’s Dream F
Gardens G to I
With MC3 and working from the inside to the outside of your ball, make 3 squares, labelling them G, H, and I in order of creation.
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- Sophie’s Dream G
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- Sophie’s Dream H
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- Sophie’s Dream I
Gardens J to L
With MC4 and working from the outside to the inside of your ball, make 3 squares, labelling them J, K, and L in order of creation.
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- Sophie’s Dream J
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- Sophie’s Dream K
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- Sophie’s Dream L
Extra Finishing Round
When you have made all 12 Gardens, you will need to add an extra round to each of them using BC1 Whirlette. This helps to create a smooth look when joining. Using a darker colour like this also helps to tone down some of the brightness (especially in that Key Lime Pi!).
Round 37 (BC1)
Join BC1 yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-2 corner sp. (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 sp. This is your first corner made.
*Dc in each of the 84 sts across. Don’t forget the first (hidden) st. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the top of the first dc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.
Stitch Count: 88 dc per side
Deciding on Your Layout
When you have made all 12 squares, you will need to join them to each other. I am going to show you how we chose to do our layout, but you are free to move the colours around.
Jenny’s Layout
Before joining everything, Jenny lent me all the squares for photography. I spent a glorious day photographing them and making sure that the colours were as accurately represented as I could possibly make them. When I was finished, I sent her MANY different collages to choose from before I joined the squares and returned her blanket back to her. After much playing around and Oohing and Aahing, we decided on the following layout:
Choosing Your Own Layout
If you do decide to move the colours around to better suit your taste, try not to put too many light or dark colours next to each other as this will make the blanket appear a bit lopsided.
- The best way to decide on a layout, in my opinion, is to photograph each blocked square and then crop them so that there is no background visible beyond the last BC1 Round. Make sure that you label them in a way that will be easily identifiable to you.
- Go to Picmonkey (free for this purpose, although paid options are available) and create a Collage in a 3 x 4 grid, roughly 1200 x 1600 pixels.
- Upload your photos and drop them into the Collage until you are happy with the results. You might want to save many different variations so that you can compare them later.
Alternatively, you can save the individual photos I shared at the start of this post and use them instead.
Joining the Squares
When you are happy with your layout, you will join your squares using the diagonal (Sc, ch 1, skip 1) join my granny taught me. It yields a flat seam on the front of your work that will look like little stitches. On the back of your work, the seam will be raised (but not as much as if you had made a sc in each stitch). This seam is reasonably elastic, provided that you don’t make your chains too tight. If you need more help with this join, have a look at THIS TUTORIAL.
Starting the Diagonal Join
Join with a 3.25mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) and BC1.
Step 1
To join on the diagonal with the (Sc, ch 1, skip 1) Join, you will start with the bottom right square (bottom left, if you are left-handed). You will be attaching it to the square above it first, followed by the square directly next to it. You will need to refer to the layout photo above (or your own created layout photo).
Flip the square above the corner square over onto the corner square so that their RS are facing each other. With BC1 yarn, a slip knot already on your hook, and starting in the corner sp, make a sc through both layers of the ch sp. Ch 1. Insert your hook into the first st of the square closest to you, then insert your hook into the second st of the square farthest away from you and make a sc through both layers. *Ch 1, skip the next st of both layers, and sc through the next st of both layers.*
Repeat from * to * until you get to the next corner sp. Your last sc before the corner will fall in the second to last sc of the side for the top layer, and in the last sc of the side for the bottom layer. Into the corner space: (sc, ch 1) through both layers.
Step 2
Unfold your squares. Now that you have attached the square above the corner square, you need to attach the square next to it, so flip that square over onto the corner square so that their RS are facing each other. Insert your hook into the corner sp of the top square and then insert it into the corner sp of the bottom square. Make a sc through both layers and ch 1. Make a sc through the first st of the top layer and the second st of the bottom layer (as before). *Ch 1, skip the next st of both layers, and sc through the next st of both layers*.
Repeat from * to * until you get to the corner sp. (Sc, ch 1) in the corner sp. Fasten off and pull the ch st tight to form a little knot. Unfold the squares again. You should now have 3 squares attached to each other: two in the bottom row and one in the top row. They should look like steps. See Numbers 1-3 in the picture below.
You will now continue to add your squares in diagonal strips.
Adding the Next Diagonal Strip
Place the next square above the top right-hand square (left, if you are left-handed). Place a square in the gap formed where the previous 3 squares meet. Place a square next to the bottom-left square (bottom-right, if you are left-handed). See Numbers 4-6 in the picture above.
Starting on the right (left, if you are left-handed), join the first 2 squares of the next strip as before. This will bring you to the ‘inside’ corner where the initial 3 squares meet. Unfold your squares and then fold the top 3 squares (2, 4, and 5 in the picture) over onto the bottom 2 so that you can attach the other side of the square.
Before you can join the next side, you need to anchor your work to the ‘inside’ corner created when you joined the first 3 squares. To do this, sl st into the ch-1 corner sp created when joining the first 3 squares. When you have made the sl st, ch 1. This is your corner made.
Insert your hook into the corner sp of the squares (through both layers as before) and make a sc. Continue with the (sc, ch 1, skip 1) seam as before, until you have attached all 3 squares to the previous 3 squares. When you have joined the last side, fasten off as before.
Adding Subsequent Diagonal Strips
Continue adding squares in a diagonal fashion, like steps. You will always start joining top-right (top-left if you are left-handed) and end bottom-left (bottom-right if you are left-handed). When you have 3 squares along the bottom, stop adding a square to the bottom-left corner of every strip (bottom-right if you are left-handed), so that you get a straight edge. When your blanket is 4 squares long, stop adding a square to the top-right corner of every strip (top-left if you are left-handed). Continue until you have joined all the squares.
Adding the Border
When you have joined all your squares to each other, you are ready to add your border. The Popcorns in this border are created over 2 rounds. In Round 2, you will make a series of 5-dc groups. In Round 3, you will turn these 5-dc groups into Popcorns by using front post stitches.
Change back to a 3mm hook!
Border Round 1 (BC1)
When adding the first round of the border, the ch-2 corners of each square (along the edges of the blanket) will count as a stitch and should be worked into. Only the four ch-2 spaces in the corners of the blanket will be referred to as a ch-2 space.
Join BC1 yarn by making a standing double crochet in the ch-2 corner sp at the start of any long side. (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 sp. This is your first corner made.
*Hdc in each st, remembering that the ch-2 sps along the edge count as sts and should be worked into. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first dc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.
Stitch Counts:
- Long Sides: 358 hdc and 4 dc
- Short Sides: 268 hdc and 4 dc
Border Round 2 (BC2)
Join BC2 yarn by making a standing double crochet in the ch-2 corner sp at the start of any long side. (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 sp. This is your first corner made.
*[Ch 2, skip the next 2 sts, and make 5 dc in the next st] until you have 2 sts left. Ch 2 and skip the last 2 sts. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first dc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.
Stitch Counts:
- Long Sides: 120 5-dc groups and 121 ch-2 sps (not including corner spaces)
- Short Sides: 90 5-dc groups and 91 ch-2 sps (not including corner spaces)
Border Round 3 (BC1)
To make a FPhdc around a 5-dc group, yarn over and insert your hook from front to back into the ch-2 space before the 5-dc group. Insert your hook from back to front into the next ch-2 space so that the 5 dc’s lie on top of your hook. Complete your hdc as normal, making sure that your working yarn is above the 5 dc’s, not in front of them. This will pull the 5 dc’s together and form a neat Popcorn. If you want more help, you can find a photo tutorial HERE.
Join BC1 yarn by making a standing half-double crochet in the ch-2 corner sp at the start of any long side. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same ch-2 sp. This is your first corner made.
*Hdc in the first 2 sts and make 2 hdc in the first ch-2 sp. [Make a FPhdc around the next 5-dc group, make 2 hdc in the next ch-2 sp] until you have worked into every ch-2 sp. Hdc in the last 2 sts. (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the corner ch-2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first hdc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.
Stitch Counts:
- Long Sides: 370 hdc
- Short Sides: 280 hdc
Yay!! You are all done (fast-forward a few weeks or months)! Pat yourself on the back for me and have a lovely cuppa (or a G&T) to celebrate!
I can’t resist crumpled-up blankets, so I will share one more photo…
Thank you for choosing to make this blanket. If you share photos of your project, please use #sophiesdreamblanket so that we can all Ooh! and Aah!
Want to see more of our Sophie’s Dream journey?
More Whirl Patterns
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Carly says
I love this blanket. I am just on my last garden now. My question is about blocking, I have used scheepjes yarn as you have, i was wondering if you blocked each garden before joining them? If so, would you be able to tell me what method of blocking you used (I am new to blocking and want to get it right as it is such a gorgeous piece!)
many thanks and stay safe.
Carly
Dedri Uys says
Hi Carly.
How exciting to almost be done! I did block each square (and prefer to do so because it helps me see when I am making my joins too tight), but you don’t have to for this pattern if you don’t want to. I usually wet block: wet squares, wring out excess water, pin out on exercise mats, let dry. Super easy, you just have to find the space to do it!
Benedicte says
such lovely pattern and colours :) My question is, do you have diagrams or just written pattern? I tend to work easier with diagrams, that is why I ask. Are ready to start on an afghan and would love to use this pattern.
Dedri Uys says
Hi Benedicte,
There are not charts, but there are step by step videos and photo tutorials. I hope that helps!
Dedri
April says
Hi Didri. Absolutely loving this pattern and I’m so appreciative of the time and effort you put in to make such a beautiful patterns and such well written, easy to follow instructions. And the pattern is free! Wow, thank you from the bottom of me heart.
I am on my 9th square and have consistently run a little short in yarn for each square, but I’ve found easy substitutes, one being the Blueberry whirlette yarn. My question is: will I need two full skeins of the BB whirlette yarn to complete the border? I can’t wait to make another one, truly beautiful and I’m in love with Scheebjes whirl!
Thank you!
Dedri Uys says
Hi April.
Thank you for your lovely comment.
The border only uses 1 ball and an extra few meters of BB, so if you start off with at least 1 and a half balls, you should be fine (taking into account your gauge).
I hope that helps.
Dedri
April says
Thanks Dedri! You’re going to laugh but on my 8th square I really tightened up my gauge and had more thank enough yarn to complete the last three squares, so I reordered 3 skeins and I’m going to do the first 7 squares over again since the tighter gauge squares are so much prettier. Call me crazy! At least I’ve memorized the pattern.
Thanks again and God Bless!
Dedri Uys says
Oh good! Not good that you had made so many already by the time you figured this out, but good that you DID figure it out and I’m really pleased to hear that you are happy with the tension as it is now. I hope you will share photos x
Dedri
Julie Bradshaw says
Whooopee! Just finished this beautiful blanket. What a fun way to do all those popcorns! Sophie’s Dream was the best ever intro to Scheepjes Whirls. I’m now a big fan and starting another stash. Thanks so much! Back to Rozeta. LOL. Julie
Julie Bradshaw says
Hi Dedri, I just finished square 12. They are so very beautiful all together. My final square had exactly 9″ of yarn left! I am now adding the border rounds and looking forward to the join as I am stalling on Part 7 of Rozeta LOL. I did find your extensive blog? post on gauge and hooks that was informative, and of course fun. I have seen Esther’s video too, which I found helpful, but I think I am just too old to watch every stitch as I try to count too. I have become much more aware of the size of my stitches, however, and how much the tension on my yarn varies from moment to moment evidently, as identical squares (in pattern) can vary alot in size. Maybe most dependent on how much my hands hurt from old age and overuse. I now have three 3.00 (Amour, Clover, and Etimo, and have discovered they aren’t identical, but useful for different yarns. I like the Etimo 3.00 with Catona in particular. Something about the way it glides, but the Amours are my favorites. I just want to congratulate you again on a spectacular pattern. Sophie is just devine. Julie
Lisa says
Hi there, I came across this pattern via Pinterest. Are the instructions in US or UK terminology?
Jenny says
Hi!
All the patterns are in US terms unless otherwise stated.
Jenny :)
Farida says
Hi Dedri, this is absolutely stunning! caught my breath when I saw Sophie’s Garden. Got my yarn pack but I was so worried about gauge and tension and crocheted so tightly that my garden actually turned out slightly smaller than the specified size, phew!!! I ‘m working on my 4th garden now, relaxed enjoying it more than ever because it is gorgeous! I thank you for creating and painstakingly writing the pattern AND for free too. God bless you for making so many people happy
Dedri Uys says
Wow, that must have been VERY tight :) I’m glad you are all sorted now and can relax into the making. I hope you will share some photos with us (Jenny and I). We would love to follow your journey.
Dedri
Farida says
Just finished my Sophie and so love it! Can’t believe something can be so pretty. I added an extra hdc border round as I had about 20 yards yarn left from my first blueberry cake after completing the final border round. love it too. Thanks again for this spectacular pattern.
Dedri Uys says
You are very welcome. I’m really pleased that you are happy with it :)
Julie Bradshaw says
Hi Dedri (and Jenny),
Well, I lost at yarn chicken for the first whirl. I have 2 and 1/2 rounds to go. I am assuming I can buy a somewhat matching whirlette (I think in citrus for the first whirl). My question is about hooks in general. I have a set of Clover Amour, and used the 2.75, and 3.25 with the Whirl. There is no 3.0 in the set. I have a set of Tulip’s Etimos with a 3.00, but it seems the same size as my 2.75 Amour. I purchased a single Clover 3.00, but the handle isn’t as comfortable to use, and again, I can’t tell the difference in the shaft size when I compare using the little measuring holes. Is there really a difference in all these hooks? Since I got my Tulips, I’ve used them more with Catona, but I like the Amours more with other yarns. The Etimos have a 2, 3 and 4. I would love to see a post about all these expensive hooks, in other words. I think it may be the crocheter, more than the hook! Love you both. Julie
Dedri Uys says
Hi Julie
I am sorry to hear that you lost out on yarn chicken.
There IS really a difference between a 3mm and a 3.25, although it doesn’t make much of a difference if you are tensioning your yarn in certain ways. I work tightly, am a ‘rider’, and have pretty fierce control of my tension, so changing between those two hooks will make a 25g difference in yarn usage over a whirl for me (10%!!!).
I am going to copy a blurb I did about gauge recently. You might find some of the information useful.
I hope something in there is useful to you.
Dedri
Ps. I bought my 3mm clover amour separately on amazon for £3
Judith Skinner says
Hello Dedri and Susan: I love the yarn, I love the book. I started a while ago and having a lot of trouble because my rounds start in the middle of the square???? so I have to figure out this way the pattern and is taking me too long to continue. I’m almost ready to give up, since I cant imagine doing this again 11 more times.
I know you have instructions on one color but I don’t know how I will be starting so close to the corner in round 31 for example, (where I am now). I’m exactly in the middle. Any suggestions?
Thank you
Judi
Jenny says
Judi, are you cutting and starting new rounds exactly as Dedri explains in the pattern? Not every round starts exactly where the last one finishes, and I am confused that some of your rounds finish in the middle of a round? Are you confusing the fact that after the mandala is squared off that you then have in effect 8 sides and not 4?
Hope we can get you sorted out. There is also an official Scheepjes Facebook group where you will get tons of help, and the CCC Facebook group where Sophie’s Universe was hosted for further help.
Jenny :)
Susan says
I am having a devil of a time getting gauge for part 1
“At the end of Part 1, your motif should measure 9cm/3.5”.”
I used a (C) 2.75mm Clover hook and gauged out at 10.5cm. I tried it again with tighter tension and it ended up just over 10cm. I then tried a (B) 2.25mm Clover hook with as tight a tension as I could make it and STILL gauged out at exactly 10cm!
Is it possible that some of the yarns are just a bit thicker due to the qualities of the dyes? I am using the Whirl but a different palette – my MC1 is “Sea Breeze Tease”
I am loathe to go on to Parts 2 and 3 without being closer to gauge! HELP please!?!
Dedri Uys says
Hi Susan. Have you heard of the golden loop? Esther Dijkstra from It’s All in a Nutshell has a wonderful video about it, if you haven’t. I suspect that you are a ‘lifter’, which is why you are finding it hard to obtain gauge. Also, do you pick your yarn, or do you throw your yarn like a knitter? You might find that your particular style of crocheting will make it impossible for you to work to the same tight tension as we have done. If that is the case, you can always either buy more yarn, or stop the motifs earlier. have you got a photo of your work so that we can look at it to better help you? You can open up an email dialogue via the contact me button at the top of this site.
Dedri
Susan says
I finally got it — I do tend to be a lifter and a picker by just really tightening down and using a B hook (2.25mm) I was finally able to get to 9cm…. I am finished with all the squares and just finished blocking them. They are spectacular! My colors are Sea Breeze Tease, Minty Black Velvet, Pistachi Oh So Nice, and Blackberry Mint Chip and I am joining and edging in all one color of Whirlette, Frosted. I am working on my Ravelry notes today so I will have photos of my progress up soon.
Nikki says
Hi, I am loving this blanket, I’ve just ordered my yarn (I bought one whirl a couple of days ago at extra $$$ so I could get started while I waited for shipping…)!! And I’m so excited to make this!!! I’ve just finished part one and having never followed a pattern before I’m pretty proud of how I’m doing so far, but I’m really worried I’m not getting the gauge right and I’ll run out of yarn…
How much yarn was left from each whirl? If I end up running our what are some solutions that I can do to finish?
Thanks
Nikki :)
Jenny says
Hi Nikki. I had approx 20g or less left over from each Whirl, if I remember correctly. It is totally up to you how you rectify any yarn amount issues. Some have bought another whole Whirl cake, and some have used Whirlette in the border colour and extended out that way.
Jenny :)
Nikki says
Thank you Jenny, that’s very helpful! I’ll keep that in mind if the worst happens :) lol
Nikki
Jenny says
Eek! Fingers crossed it won’t ;)
Tracy Nauert says
So I’m in the United States and apparently 3.0 hooks are hard to find. I have Susan Bates hooks, sizes US C(2.75), US D (3.25) and US E (3.5). Will these be okay to use or should I order a 3.0 from a European store and have it shipped? Appreciate your help. Such a beautiful blanket. Thank you for sharing…..
Dedri Uys says
Hi Tracy. Both Jenny and I are fairly tight crocheters, so I would suggest going with the 2.75, especially since Susan Bates hooks are inline and work to a looser tension than the tapered Clover Amour hooks we use.
Sara Malam says
I am halving the pattern and only doing six squares with two balls of rosewater cocktail, do I still need two balls of blueberry whirlette for the edging? or can I get away with one?
Dedri Uys says
Hi Sara. You’ll be fine with one :)
Tami Coverdale says
I was just wondering when it will be available again.
Thanks
Tami
Dedri Uys says
Hi, I’m not sure what you mean? The pattern is available here and yarn packs are available in my Wool Warehouse Shop?
Diana Anderson says
Hi Dedri, I’ve been a huge fan since the 2014 CAL. Your tutorials changed my crochet life from being unable to read and follow patterns to now being pretty good. A few squares I still find impossible. But I am so grateful for all that I’ve gained. I’m working on my 4th Sophie at this time.
I would also like to recommend a book that really impacted and impressed me. It is called: Before We Were Yours, by
Lisa Wingate, it is a fictional story based on true events. I hope you enjoy it.
Happy reading, Happy 2019 to you and may you and yours be safe and blessed!
Sincerely,
diana Anderson
Dedri Uys says
Hi Diana. How have you been? Thank you for the book recommendation. I’ve just downloaded it in Audible as my current audio book is almost finished (I find it soothing to listen to books as I go about my business). Ask me in a week what I thought! Have a wonderful 2019 and thank you for the blessings x
Dedri
Rosie C says
Loving making this! I’m up to square 9 done and I’ve been easily getting 3 from a whirl (20g+ left on each one) so on the last whirl I actually took out 10g before I started to get more of the colour change into my first square. This is the looser version of my tension as well!
I’ve almost memorized the pattern now and I’m managing to do each square without cutting the yarn by adjusting the start position of each round, it’s so relaxing to work on :)
Jenny says
Hi Rosie!
I can see you are as addicted as me to the lovely Sophie’s Garden square in Whirls! I am 9 squares in to my second version at the moment!
Enjoy!
Jenny :)
Tracy Fear says
I completed this today. It is a huge hit! I did change up one of the Whirls and the background and popcorn colors. I was not quite able to get 3 from each whirl has something to do with my own tension and willingness to only work with Susan Bates hooks for which I have never been able to locate a 3mm, and if I did, I lost it immediately.
You will have the garden memorized by around the 8th block! I really appreciate this and all of your other patterns and I do click the affiliate link for Amazon. My debit card always locks up when I try to order from anywhere but the US.
Karen says
So…..I’m a new hooker but I just have to try this! I’ve made “The Lotus Flower Blanket” by Hooked by Robin. I had leftover yarn so I tried Sophie’s Dream.
After 1st round I measure 4 inches. Am I close enough or do I need to redo and tighten up so I don’t run out of yarn?
Thanks!
Jenny says
Hi Karen. Jenny here. If you don’t match my tensions you are very likely to be unable to finish the third square. I have a very small amount left after my three squares. It is up to you if you want to frog and redo, or be prepared to have to add more yarn to your third square. Are you using Scheepjes Whirl? If not, then I can’t really advise on other yarn.
Karen says
Hi Jenny. I was just practicing with some left over Scheepjes Whirl from another project. I gonna use that 4 inch 1st round a a coaster ;)
I changed to a 2.5mm hook and have finished round 3 (except for crab stitches) and am happy to report I seem to be on gauge! Yay!
Question: why is the crab stitch optional? Why would I skip it?
Thanks for this beautiful pattern. I’ve discovered I like more involved patterns. Keeps me totally engaged.
Jenny says
Hey Karen. The crab stitch is optional because some people dislike the stitch so choose not to make it. You don’t ‘need’ that round to carry on with the pattern, but in my opinion, it really makes a statement in the overall design :)
Jenny
Kathy L says
Wanting to make this bigger so more squares will be made. Can you please tell me how much yarn required for one square please? Beautiful blanket, can’t wait to make it for a wedding gift for my niece.
Thank you
Dedri Uys says
Hi. You can get 3 squares out of a single whirl, so you would need a third of a whirl for each extra square.
Lynda says
Hi Dedri, I am finding this pattern a challenge to get the correct tension and Round 5 is confusing me. I don’t want to cut my Whirl (I have already frogged back to the begin4 times due to tension not being right). Can you tell me where I can find instructions to start round 5 without cutting the yarn?
I have wanted to make this pattern for years and Sophie’s Dream called to me to make it, this will be the first project that I will be keeping for myself
Regards Lynda
Dedri Uys says
Hi Lynda. Tension is important for two reasons in this project: keeping within yarn requirements AND yielding a sturdy piece where the surface detail doesn’t get lost as it would against a looser background. Depending on your hook (inline/tapered), whether you yank/lift/ride, and whether you pick or throw your yarn, it might be impossible for you to work to tension for this project, in which case you can either try using a different, thicker yarn, or you can resign yourself to the knowledge that you will need to get more yarn.
I have included instructions for starting each round with the same colour OR a new colour. The only exceptions to this is where you need to cut your yarn REGARDLESS of whether you change colours or not. This is done for neatness or because you will start in a completely different place. There are only about 5 of these instances and although it is possible to fudge your way to where you need to be to start the next round, I would suggest cutting and joining where suggested for neatness.
Have a lovely day!
Dedri
Susan says
Lynda — I completely understand you hesitancy to cut the yarn! — What I did:
Without cutting anything, I have been pulling out the last loop of the joining sl st and looping the cake through to finish the round. Pull the sl st tight and leave about 8 inches before making stitch that begins the next round. You end up with “loops” on the back of your piece that later can be cut in the middle and the ends woven in, but if you have to rip out the whole thing, you are not dealing with cut yarn.
Hope that explanation is clear. It eased my mind as my gauging is often very tricky to achieve…
Best – Susan