Good Morning!

I hope you are all excited and ready for Part 3 of Sophie’s Universe.  At the end of part 3, you will have a beautifully bright Mandala.  This Mandala has its own Ravelry Page, so feel free to add your projects there as well.

Sophie’s  Universe Part 3 {Photo Tutorial}

©Dedri Uys 2014. All Rights Reserved.

Special design credit to Chris Simon for allowing me to use a modified version of her Lace Petals flower.

Resources

• Add this CAL to your Ravelry Queue
• Sophie’s Universe CAL 2015 Information
• Use the Print-friendly button at the bottom (right) of this post to print/save this tutorial.  Don’t know how? Find out HERE.
• **Part 3 VIDEO TUTORIAL** by Esther Dijkstra from It’s All in a Nutshell

Translations

• Dutch Photo Tutorial by Dianne Baan
• German Translation by Gabriele Rogers
• Spanish Translation by Lynda Hernandez
• Danish Translation by Tina Poulsen
• Finnish Translation by Sari Åström
• French Translation by Sandra Larvin (with Video Tutorials by Géraldine Cymer)
• Russian Translation (with Video) by Natalie V. Alimpieva
• Swedish CAL Information by Emma Vingqvist, Agnetha Magnusson, Åza Karlsson, and Ulrika Larsson
• Arabic Video Tutorial by Banan Felimban

Materials

See the Information Post.

Colours for Part 3
	Cotton 8	Softfun	Stonewashed XL
Round 16	Canary	Canary	Deep Amethyst
Round 17	Light Pink	Light Rose	Deep Amethyst
Round 18	Pink	Rose	Lemon Quartz
Round 19	Fuchsia	Bordeaux	Lemon Quartz
Round 20	Moors	Cyclamen	Green Agate
Round 21	Light Green	Olive	Green Agate
Round 22	Turquoise	Dark Turquoise	Amazonite
Round 23	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Amazonite
Round 24	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Moonstone
Round 25	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Moonstone

Size

	Large	Medium	Small
Sophie’s Universe (End of Part 3)	50 cm (just under 20 “)	40 cm (just under 16″)	30 cm (just under 12″)

Abbreviations

US Terminology used (US/UK comparison chart here)

• Ch – Chain
• Dc – Double crochet
• Fpdc – Front post double crochet
• Fpdtr – Front post double treble
• Fptr – Front post treble crochet
• Hdc – Half-double crochet
• Sc – Single crochet
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• St/st’s – Stitch/stitches
• * – Repeat instructions between asterisks the number of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
• () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the number of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.

Special Stitches

• Cluster : Dc3tog – see this tutorial.
• Crab stitch:  This stitch is also known as the reverse single crochet. See this tutorial.
• Popcorn stitch: Make 5 dc’s in the same stitch. Remove your hook from the last stitch. Insert your hook into the first dc of the 5 dc’s. Grab the last stitch with your hook and pull it through the first stitch. Ch 1. See this tutorial.
• Standing Stitches:  Standing sc’s, hdc’s, and dc’s are stitches used to start the round without the need for the traditional beginning chain. Links to tutorials are supplied in each relevant round.

Invisible Join

If you would like to use the invisible join instead of the sl st join at the end of each round, you can find a step-by-step photo tutorial here. If you DO decide to use it, make very sure that you understand which stitch to join to and which stitch to start your new round in, otherwise, your mandala is going to come out all wonky!

Instructions

Rounds 1 – 15

You can find the links for Rounds 1 – 15 HERE.

Round 16

Hint: The hdc’s worked into the picots should fall in the 4th sc made into the ch-6 space.

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next st and then ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc). Hdc in the next 3 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing half-double crochet in the st after the sl st join. Hdc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 1}.

*Catch the picot by making a hdc through the picot from Round 13 and into the next st of Round 15 (so through both layers as before) – see Photo 2. Hdc in the next 5 st’s {Photo 3} and make a fptr around the post of the fpdc from Round 14 {Photo 4}. Skip the next st of Round 15 and Make 2 hdc’s in the next st {indicated with an arrow in Photo 5 and illustrated in Photo 6}. Fptr around the same fpdc from Round 14 {Photo 7}. Skip the next st of Round 15 and hdc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 8}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 4 hdc’s on the last repeat {Photo 9}. Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or standing hdc) with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 168 st’s {144 hdc’s and 24 fptr’s}

Round 17

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 1}.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Sc in the next 4 st’s.

*Fpdc around the picot from Round 13 {indicated with an arrow in Photo 1 and illustrated in Photos 2 and 3}. Skip the next st from Round 16 and sc in the next 6 st’s {Photo 4}. Make 2 sc’s in the next st {Photo 5}. Sc in the next 6 st’s {Photo 6}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 5 sc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 180 st’s {168 sc’s and 12 fpdc’s}

Note

In the next 3 rounds, Sophie has a tendency to buckle. This will correct itself in Rounds 21 and 22, so don’t worry about it. If your stitch count is spot on, you’ll be fine.

Round 18

Update:  A few of you seem to be struggling with this round.  I have now linked to a better tutorial (by Tamara from Moogly) to make it easier for you to understand how the popcorn should be made.  Remember that the 5-dc popcorn stitch is closed with a ch st.  

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next 3 st’s so that you end up in the second sc before the fpdc. Ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc). Hdc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing half-double crochet in the second sc before any fpdc from the previous round. Hdc in the next st {Photo 1}.

*Make a popcorn stitch in the next st, which will be the fpdc {Photo 2}. Hdc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 3}. Fptr around the fptr from Round 16 {Photo 5}. Skip the next st of Round 17 {indicated with an arrow in Photo 5}. Hdc in the next 2 st’s. Make 2 hdc’s in the next st. Hdc in the next 2 st’s {Photo 6}. Fptr around the fptr from Round 16 {Photo 7}. Skip the next st of Round 17. Hdc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 8}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 2 hdc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or the standing hdc) with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 192 st’s {156 hdc’s, 12 popcorns and 24 fptr’s}

Round 19

Identifying which “loops” to work into for the popcorn stitch: for the purposes of this pattern, the “top” of the popcorn stitch will be the first dc of the 5-dc’s used to create the popcorn. You will find the loops for this stitch immediately to the right and slightly behind the popcorn (to the left if you are left-handed) – see the arrow in Photo 2.  When you work into the first dc of the 5-dc popcorn like this (Photo 2), you will skip the ch st on top of each popcorn (indicated with an arrow in Photo 1).

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st to the popcorn stitch. Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in any popcorn stitch around {Photo 2}.

Dc in the next 15 st’s.  *Dc in the next stitch, which should be the Popcorn Stitch.  Dc in the next 15 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 10 more times.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing dc) with a sl st.

Photo 3 below shows the first dc after the Popcorn completed.  Note the skipped ch st at the top of the Popcorn.

Stitch Count: 192 dc’s

Round 20

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). Dc in the next 3 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Dc in the next 3 st’s.

*Fpdtr around the fptr from Round 18 {Photo 1}. Skip the next st of Round 19 and dc in the next 10 st’s {Photo 2}. Fpdtr around the fptr from Round 18 {Photo 3}. Skip the next st of Round 19 and dc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 4}. The first dc should fall in the dc in the top of the popcorn stitch.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 4 dc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 192 st’s {168 dc’s and 24 fpdtr’s}

Round 21

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). Dc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Dc in the next st.

*Make 2 dc’s in the next st. Dc in the next 3 st’s. The last dc should fall in the dc after the fpdtr from the previous round {Photo 1}. (Ch 2 and make a cluster) three times {Photos 2 and 3}. Ch 2 and dc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 4}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 2 dc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 132 st’s and 48 ch-2 spaces {96 dc’s and 36 clusters }

Round 22

At this point, the “petals” formed by your front post stitches are almost complete. In this round, you will be forming the points of the petals.

Do not worry if your mandala starts to curl in this round, it will straighten out in the next round.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Sc in the next 2 st’s.

*Fpdtr around the fpdtr from Round 20 to the left of the popcorn stitch (right, if you are left-handed) – see Photo 1. Fpdtr around the fpdtr from Round 20 to the right of the popcorn stitch (left, if you are left-handed) – see Photo 2. Skip the next st of Round 21. Sc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 3}. (Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-2 space, sc in the top of the next cluster) three times. Make 2 sc’s in the last ch-2 space {Photo 4}. Sc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 5}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 3 sc’s on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 240 st’s {216 sc’s and 24 fpdtr’s}

Round 23

Note:  When working around the fpdtr’s from the previous round, you will make one fpdc around both posts (together) and skip the tops of these 2 st’s. The arrows in Photo 4 indicate the tops of the fpdtr’s that will be skipped.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). Dc in the next 2 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Dc in the next 2 st’s {Photo 1}.

*Make a fpdc around the posts of both fpdtr’s from Round 22 {Photos 2 and 3}.  See Note above if you need help with this.  Dc in the next 18 sc’s {Photo 5}. Don’t accidentally skip the first sc after the fptr’s.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 3 dc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 228 st’s {216 dc’s and 12 fpdc’s}

Round 24

In this round, you will be making increases by working into the loops (tops) of the fpdc’s AND around the posts.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Sc in the next st.

*Hdc in the next 2 st’s. The last hdc should fall in the top of the fpdc from the previous round {Photo 1}. Fpdc around the post of the fpdc from the previous round {Photo 2}. Hdc in the next 2 st’s {Photo 3}. Sc in the next 15 st’s.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 2 sc’s on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.

Stitch Count: 240 st’s {180 sc’s, 48 hdc’s, and 12 fpdc’s}

Please Note:  I have used Canary in the photos below to better illustrate the stitches, but I have used light turquoise in my final blanket.

Round 25 (Optional)

This round is optional.  The crab stitch tends to make a lot of people “crabby”, but I quite like making it.  Don’t worry if your mandala starts wobbling slightly when you make the crab stitch round. Once you’ve blocked it, it will be right as rain.

Start in any stitch around with a standing single crochet (Photo 1). Make a crab stitch in each st around (Photos 2 and 3).

If you are not familiar with the crab stitch, see this video tutorial. When you get to the end of the round, make a crab stitch in the same stitch as the standing single crochet. No need to join with a sl st. In fact, I’ll give you an apple if you manage to do it! Just fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.

Stitch Count: 240 crab stitches

See the “wobble” I was talking about? It looks a little bit worse in the photo than it actually was.

This is nothing to be alarmed about. It is caused by the fact that the crab stitch takes up more space and is denser than normal single crochet. Because of this, it stretches the last round slightly. Once your mandala is blocked it should be perfect!

If you are going to continue with the CAL there is no need to block at this point.  We will square this mandala up next week and that will get rid of the “wobble”.

And now that we’ve gotten all the formalities out of the way I have a little mister who would like to say hello.  Of the 3 blankets I am making, the Softfun seems to be his favourite.

This blog post contains affiliate links. I only link to products I personally use or would use.  All opinions are my own.