This dinky little square is the Emma Square, designed for the June 2017 Devon Sun Yarns Retreat and named after a courageous friend of mine.  It’s a simple little pattern, and easy to memorise once you’ve made a few.

Usually, I design something more complicated for retreats (like my Ammonite Crochet Hook Roll or the Banksia Shawl), but for that retreat, we decided to give everyone undyed yarn and ask them to make as many of these squares as they could before Sunday.  On Sunday, we dyed the completed squares, which was both daunting and exhilarating!  You can see lots of photos in the post I wrote about the retreat HERE.  The post also contains tips and links for dyeing your own yarn/squares.

This Emma Square is perfect for using up small skeins of yarn, scrap yarn, or the very popular Cutie Pie boxes from Scheepjes (see Project Ideas below).

Emma Square Crochet Pattern

• Information
• Instructions
  • Written-only
  • Photo Tutorial
• Blocking
• Project Ideas

Information

Resources

• Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
• Hashtag:  #emmacrochetsquare or #emmasquare
• If you would like to print/save a specific part of this pattern, please use the Print Friendly button at the bottom of my site to select the text you would like to print/save.

Materials

You can use any hook/yarn combination your heart desires.  For the photo tutorial below, I am using Scheepjes Catona Cutie Pies and a 3.25mm hook.  With this hook/yarn combination, I was able to create one Emma square from each Catona Cutie Pie.  My tension is extremely tight, though, so it is important that you make a test square to gauge if you need to use a smaller hook.  My maker Minno, for example, has a much looser tension than I do, so she ended up using a 2.5mm hook to get one square out of one Catona Cutie Pie.

Below, you will find the yarn/hook combinations that worked for me.

Materials
	Hook Size	Yarn
Small	3mm	Catona
Medium	4mm	Undyed Merino DK
Large	5mm*	Riverwashed XL

*Please see Size and Notes below if you decide to make these squares in Riverwashed XL/Stonewashed XL Cutie Pies.  

Abbreviations

US Terminology (US/UK Conversion HERE)

• Beg – Beginning
• Ch – Chain
• Dc – Double crochet
• Hdc – Half-double crochet
• Rem – Remaining/remains
• Sc – Single Crochet
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• Sp/sps – Space/spaces
• St/sts – Stitch/stitches

Punctuation

* An asterisk indicates pattern repeats. You will need to repeat all the instructions between asterisks the number of times specified. This is a hard-core repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.

Parentheses () indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between parentheses the number of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.

Gauge

Gauge suggestions are supplied for all three sizes at the end of Rounds 2 and Rounds 4 below, using the recommended yarn (above) and the hook size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge
	Round 2	Round 4
Small	3.7cm/1.5″	7cm/2.8″
Medium	4cm/1.6″	7.5cm/3″
Large	5.5cm/2.2″	10cm/4″

Size

Size and Yardages Used at the End of Rounds 7 and 8
	Round 7	Round 8	Round 7	Round 8
Small	9.5cm/3.7″	11cm/4.3″	7g/17.5m/19yds	10g/25m/27yds
Medium	10cm/4″	12cm/4.7″	8g/17.5m/19yds	11g/25m/27yds
Large	14cm/5.5″	17cm/6.7″	15g/22.5m/24.5yds*	21g/31.5m/34yds

* If you are planning to use the Riverwashed XL/Stonewashed XL Cutie Pies for this square, you will only have enough yarn to make the first seven rounds in each colour, provided you follow the gauge suggested above.

Notes

I am calling Round 8 ‘Optional’ because you can stop at the end of Round 7 without losing any of the simple aesthetics of the square.  If you are using mini skeins/balls of yarn, you might not have enough in each colour to complete all eight rounds.  If this is the case, you can fasten off at the end of Round 7 for all your squares.  

Instructions

Written-Only

Round 1:  Into a Magic Ring:  Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st throughout), (sc, ch 4) 6 times.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.  {6 sc and 6 ch-4 sps}

Round 2:  Sl st into the next ch-4 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 3 dc in the same ch-4 sp.  Make 4 dc in each rem ch-4 sp.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st.  {24 dc}

Round 3:  Ch 1, sc in the same st.  (Ch 4, skip the next st, sc in the next st) 11 times.  Ch 4 and skip the last st.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.  {12 sc and 12 ch-4 sps}

Round 4:  Sl st into the next ch-4 sp.  Ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-4 sp.  Make 4 dc in each rem ch-4 sp.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st.  {48 dc}

Round 5:  Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sts.  The last sc should fall in the second dc of the second 4-dc group.  *Ch 5, skip the next st, sc in the next st.  Ch 8, sc in the next st, which should be the first dc of the next 4-dc group.  Ch 5, skip the next st, sc in the next 8 sts.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last 6 sc on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.  {10 sc and 2 ch-5 sps per side, not including ch-8 corner sp}

Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout). Sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st. Ch 2, skip the last st, and sc in the next ch-5 sp. *Ch 3, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-8 corner sp. Ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp. Ch 2, skip the first sc, dc in the next st**. Hdc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st. Ch 2, skip the last st, and sc in the next ch-5 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice and from * to ** once. Join to the top of the beg ch-2 with a sl st. {6 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, and 2 ch-3 sps per side – not including ch-2 corner sps}

Round 7:  Ch 2, hdc in the next 4 sts.  Make 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp.  Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp.  *Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp.  Skip the first (hidden) st and hdc in the next 5 sts.  Make 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp.  Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp.*  Repeat from * to * 2 more times.  Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make 3 hdc in the last ch-2 sp.  Join to the top of the beg ch-2 with a sl st.    {23 sts per side – 19 hdc and 4 dc,  not including ch-2 corner sps}

Round 8 {Optional}:  Ch 3, dc in the next 13 sts.  *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 corner sp.  Dc in each of the 23 sts across.*  Repeat from * to * 2 more times.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the last ch-2 corner sp.  Dc in each of the remaining 9 sts.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away ends.  {27 dc per side – not including ch-2 corner sps}

Photo Tutorial

Round 1

Into a Magic Ring:  Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st throughout), (sc, ch 4) 6 times {Photo 1}.  Join to the first sc with a sl st {Indicated with an arrow in Photo 1 and illustrated in Photo 2}.

Stitch Count:  6 sc and 6 ch-4 sps

Round 2

Sl st into the next ch-4 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 3 dc in the same ch-4 sp {Photo 1}.  Make 4 dc in each rem ch-4 sp.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st {Photo 2}.

Stitch Count:  24 dc

Round 3

Ch 1, sc in the same st.  (Ch 4, skip the next st, sc in the next st) 11 times.  Ch 4 and skip the last st.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Count:  12 sc and 12 ch-4 sps

Round 4

Sl st into the next ch-4 sp.  Ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-4 sp.  Make 4 dc in each rem ch-4 sp.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st.

Stitch Count:  48 dc

Round 5

Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sts.  The last sc should fall in the second dc of the second 4-dc group {Photo 1}.

*Ch 5, skip the next st, sc in the next st.  Ch 8, sc in the next st, which should be the first dc of the next 4-dc group.  Ch 5, skip the next st, sc in the next 8 sts {Photo 2}.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last 6 sc on the last repeat {Photo 3}.  Join to the first sc with a sl st {Photo 4}.

Stitch Count Per Side:  10 sc and 2 ch-5 sps – not including ch-8 corner sps

Round 6

Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout). Sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st. Ch 2 {Photo 1}, skip the last st, and sc in the next ch-5 sp {Photo 2}.

*Ch 3, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-8 corner sp. Ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp {Photo 3}. Ch 2, skip the first sc, dc in the next st**. Hdc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st {Photo 4}. Ch 2, skip the last st, and sc in the next ch-5 sp.*

Repeat from * to * twice and from * to ** once.  Join to the top of the beg ch-2 with a sl st {Photo 5}.

Stitch Count Per Side:  6 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, and 2 ch-3 sps – not including ch-2 corner sps

Round 7

Ch 2, hdc in the next 4 sts.  Make 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp.  Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp.

*Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp.  Skip the first (hidden) st and hdc in the next 5 sts.  Make 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp.  Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp.*

Repeat from * to * 2 more times.  Make 4 hdc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make 3 hdc in the last ch-2 sp.  Join to the top of the beg ch-2 with a sl st.

Stitch Count Per Side:  23 sts – 19 hdc and 4 dc, not including ch-2 corner sps.

Round 8 {Optional}

Ch 3, dc in the next 13 sts.

*(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 corner sp.  Dc in each of the 23 sts across.*

Repeat from * to * 2 more times.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the last ch-2 corner sp.  Dc in each of the remaining 9 sts.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away ends.

Stitch Count Per Side:  27 dc – not including ch-2 corner sps}

Blocking

You will notice that my squares are unblocked.  If you are going to make multiple squares and join them, I suggest blocking them before you do.  You don’t HAVE to, but I always do for two reasons:

• There is something so satisfying about pristine corners and straight edges!
• Joining methods are usually tight.  When you are joining unblocked squares, you might find that your join ‘pulls’ your squares in.  If you are joining blocked squares, you can see immediately if you need to relax your tension or go up a hook size.

You can find my favourite joining methods HERE.

Project Ideas

1. Cushion Cover

My friend Kay was one of the ladies who joined us at the retreat.  She dyed her squares in varying shades of grey and then joined them together to create a cushion cover.  She used previously-dyed blue yarn to create the remaining squares needed for the cover (and for the join).

2. Wrap

Sidekick Jenny has made a whole heap of Emma squares using two cakes of  PookGB Silk/Yak/Merino blend (100g/366m per cake) in the colourway ‘Fawkes’ and a 4mm hook.  She is going to join the squares to create a wrap… as soon as she figures out which join and colour will best compliment the design and colours of the squares.

3. Blanket

• 99 Catona Cutie Pies will give you a baby blanket that is roughly 100cm x 120cm (9 x 11 small squares up to the end of Round 8) – not including joining and border, for which you would need at least 2 x 100g balls, depending on design.
• 48 Riverwashed XL/Stonewashed XL Cute Pies will give you a blanket that is roughly 100cm x 135 cm (6 x 8 small squares up to the end of Round 7) – not including joining and border, for which you would need at least 5 x 50g balls, depending on design (see link below).
• If you are looking for layout ideas, I suggest visiting Craft the Rainbow on Instagram.  They have the most amazing photos with tons of inspiration for using small amounts of a million colours of yarn.

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**NEW** You can find a featured Riverwashed XL/Stonewashed XL blanket (and guidelines) HERE.

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Do you know?  For such a simple pattern, this post has taken an insane amount of time to put together.  There were JUST so many ideas I wanted to convey, and as I sign off, I feel like I haven’t done it justice at all.  I might come back and tweak a bit…

If you want more Emma Inspiration, please have a look at the Ravelry Projects HERE and the Instagram Photos HERE and HERE.

This blog post contains affiliate links. I only link to products I personally use or would use.  All opinions are my own.