These 2 squares are part of a build-your-own-square idea I have been meaning to expand on for ages. I had hoped to be able to publish all the alternatives, but life (and Sophie) got in the way. So here, for your crocheting pleasure, are 2 of the possible variations: Jack and Lydia.

As most of you know, Sophie is named after Kimberly Slifer’s granddaughter.  Said Sophie has 2 siblings, Jack and Lydia.  And it just so happens that I have a Jack and a Lydia in my life too.  Jack is my “work husband”, and has been for 10 years.  Lydia was my best childhood friend.

Please Note that you do not HAVE to add these squares.  They are optional.  If you do not want to make them, head over to Part 20 to see if you would like to make the (optional) border.

If you are going to make these squares to extend your Sophie’s Universe, please read Part 19 before starting your squares.

Translations

• Dutch Translation by Dianne Baan
• German Translation by Maja Heidingsfelder
• Spanish Translation by Lynda Hernandez
• French Translation by Sandra Larvin
• Danish Translation by Tina Poulsen
• Russian Translations for Jack and Lydia by Natalie V. Alimpieva
• Swedish Translation by Emma Vingqvist, Agnetha Magnusson, Åza Karlsson, and Ulrika Larsson
• **Video Tutorial** by Esther Dijkstra from It’s All in a Nutshell.

These squares are made with Scheepjeswol Cotton 8 (4-ply/#2) and a 3.25 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook (US  D/3  UK 10).  They are 10 cm (4″) big.  Lydia takes about 20 meters of yarn.  Jack is greedy and needs 22 meters.

If you would like to use these squares for a baby afghan, you can see some of the possible “configurations” HERE on Flickr.

Lydia 4″ Crochet Square

©Dedri Uys 2015.  All Rights Reserved.

Save for Later:  Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Colours:  Light Pink, Dark Pink, Fuchsia, Light Green, and Light Turquoise.

Abbreviations

US Terminology

• Beg – Beginning
• BLO – Back loop only
• Ch – Chain
• Dc – Double crochet
• FPdc – Front post double crochet
• FPtr – Front post treble crochet
• Hdc – Half-double crochet
• Rem – Remaining/remains
• Sc – Single crochet
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• Sp/sps – Space/spaces
• St/sts – Stitch/stitches
• * – Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
• () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.

Special Stitches

• Cluster : Dc3tog – see this tutorial.
• Bobble Stitch: Yarn over and insert your hook into the indicated stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops – 2 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop – 4 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops  – 3 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop – 5 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops  – 4 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.  See this tutorial.

Round 1 

Into a magic ring:  ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  Make 11 dc into the ring.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st.  If you are going to change colours for the next round, consider using the invisible join instead.

If you are not familiar with working into a magic ring, this video tutorial by Tamara from Moogly is very good.  Please remember, when working into a magic ring you HAVE to work away your initial tail very well.  If you just cut it, your whole project might unravel!

Stitch count:  12 dc

Round 2

Join your new colour by making a standing half-double crochet in the blo of any st around.  Make another hdc in the blo of the same st.  Make 2 hdc in the blo of each of the rem 11 st.  Join to the standing half-double crochet with a sl st.

Stitch count:  24 hdc

Round 3

• If you are using the same colour, (hdc, dc) in the st after the sl st join. (Dc, hdc) in the next st.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a sl st into the same st as the sl st join. (Hdc, dc) in the next st.  (Dc, hdc) in the next st.

*Sl st in the next st.  (Hdc, dc) in the next st.  (Dc, hdc) in the next st.*  Repeat from * to * 6 more times.  Join by making a sl st in the same st as the initial sl st.  Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch count:  40 st – including sl sts   {16 dcs, 16 hdcs, and 8 sl sts}

Round 4

In this round, you will be working into the “third loop”, which you will find immediately behind the back loop of your stitches.  See THIS TUTORIAL by Moogly if you do not know how to identify the third loop.

Join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the second dc of any petal.

*Ch 3.  (Bobble Stitch, ch 4, Bobble Stitch) in the third loop of the second dc of the next petal.  This is your corner made.  Ch 3.  Sc in the next 2 dc of the next petal.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last sc on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.  Fasten off.

Leave your ends until you have made the next round as it will be easier to work them away then.

Stitch counts:  

• Total: 16 sts, 8 ch-3 sps and 4 ch-4 corner sps  {8 Bobble Stitches and 8 sc}
• Per Side: 4 sts and 2 ch-3 sps  {2 Bobble Stitches and 2 sc}

Round 5

Join your new yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-4 corner sp.  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-4 corner sp.  This is your corner made.

*Make a FPdc around the next Bobble Stitch.  Make 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make a FPdc around each of the next 2 sc.  Make 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make a FPdc around the next Bobble Stitch.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-4 sp.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch counts:

• Total:  56 st and 4 ch-2 corner sps {40 dc and 16 FPdc}
• Per Side: 14 st   {10 dc and 4 FPdc}

Round 6

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next dc and into the ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 sp.  This is your first corner made.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-2 corner around.  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 corner sp.  This is your corner made.

* Ch 2.  Skip the first (hidden) st.  (Make a Cluster over the next 3 sts, ch 2) 4 times.  Skip the last st.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch counts:

• Total:  32 st and 24 ch-2 sps, including ch-2 corner sp {16 dc and 16 Clusters}
• Per Side: 8 st and 5 ch-2 sps  {4 dc and 4 Clusters}

Round 7

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next dc and into the ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 sp.  This is your first corner made.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-2 corner sp.  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 corner sp.  This is your corner made.

*Dc in the first 2 sts.  (Make 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp, make a FPdc around the next cluster) 4 times.  Make 2 dc in the last ch-2 sp.  Dc in the last 2 sts.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch counts:

• Total:  88 sts and 4 ch-2 corner sps  {72 dc and 16 FPdc}
• Per Side: 22 sts  {18 dc and 4 FPdc}

Jack 4″ Crochet Square

©Dedri Uys 2015.  All Rights Reserved.

Save for Later:  Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Colours:  Violet, Light Purple, Moors, Heath, Light Green, and Light Turquoise.

Abbreviations

US Terminology

• Beg – Beginning
• BLO – Back loop only
• Ch – Chain
• Dc – Double crochet
• FPdc – Front post double crochet
• FPtr – Front post treble crochet
• Rem – Remaining/remains
• Sc – Single crochet
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• Sp/sps – Space/spaces
• St/sts – Stitch/stitches
• * – Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
• () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.

Special Stitches

• Bobble Stitch: Yarn over and insert your hook into the indicated stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops – 2 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop – 4 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops  – 3 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop – 5 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops  – 4 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.  See this tutorial

Round 1 

Into a magic ring:  ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  Make 11 dc into the ring.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 with a sl st.  If you are going to change colours for the next round, consider using the invisible join instead.

If you are not familiar with working into a magic ring, this video tutorial by Tamara from Moogly is very good.  Please remember, when working into a magic ring you HAVE to work away your initial tail very well.  If you just cut it, your whole project might unravel!

Stitch count:  12 dc

Round 2

If you have any problems with this round, have a look at THIS TUTORIAL, which focusses on increasing with front post stitches.

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) and make a FPdc around the beg ch-3 of the previous round, which counts as the “post” of your first dc.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join and then make a FPdc around the beg ch-3 of the previous round, which counts as the “post” of your first dc.

(Dc in the next dc.  Make a FPdc around the post of the same st) in every st around.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  24 st  {12 dc and 12 FPdc}

Round 3

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join.

Dc in the next st, which will be the fpdc from the previous round.  Make a fptr around the post of the same st.  *Dc in the next 2 sts, the second of which will be the FPdc from the previous round.  Make a FPtr around the post of the same st.*  Repeat from * to * 10 more times.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  36 st   {24 dc and 12 FPtr}

Round 4

• If you are using the same colour, ch 1 and make a sc in the same st as the sl st join.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join.

*Ch 3.  Skip the next 3 sts.  (Bobble Stitch, ch 4, Bobble Stitch) in the next st, which should be dc before the next FPtr.  This is your corner made.  Ch 3 and skip the next 3 st.  Make sure that you skip only 3 st as the first st will be hidden by the Bobbles.  Sc in the next 2 st, which will be a FPtr and a dc.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last sc on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.  Fasten off.

Leave your ends until you have made the next round as it will be easier to work them away then.

Stitch counts:  

• Total: 16 st, 8 ch-3 sps and 4 ch-4 corner sps  {8 Bobble Stitches and 8 sc}
• Per Side: 4 sts and 2 ch-3 sps  {2 Bobble Stitches and 2 sc}

Round 5

Join your new yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-4 corner sp.  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-4 corner sp.  This is your corner made.

*Make a FPdc around the next Bobble Stitch.  Make 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make a FPdc around the next 2 sc.  Make 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp.  Make a FPdc around the next Bobble Stitch.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-4 sp.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch counts:

• Total:  56 sts and 4 ch-2 corner sps {40 dc and 16 FPdc}
• Per Side: 14 sts   {10 dc and 4 FPdc}

Round 6

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next dc and into the ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 sp.  This is your first corner made.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-2 corner sp.  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 corner sp.  This is your corner made.

*Make a dc in each of the 14 sts across.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch counts:

• Total:  72 dc and 4 ch-2 corner sps 
• Per Side: 18 dc

Round 7

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next dc and into the ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 sp.  This is your first corner made.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-2 corner sp.  (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 corner sp.  This is your corner made.

*Make a dc in each of the 18 sts across.  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beg ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch counts:

• Total:  88 dc and 4 ch-2 corner sps 
• Per Side: 22 dc

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