Welcome to Sophie’s Universe Part 1.  I hope you are all super excited and eager to get started!  If you haven’t already read the Information Post, please take a minute to do so now.  It contains important details like yarn weight, hook size, and completed size, as well as a quick outline of what to expect and which resources are available.

It is worth bookmarking that post because it also contains a list of all 20 tutorials, which I will update with links as soon as each tutorial is available.

Once you have read all of that, make a cup of coffee (or tea if you must), find a cosy corner, and come join me for Part 1 of Sophie’s Universe.  And then join me for Part 2.  Part 2?  Yes!!  To reward you all for your not-so-patient waiting we are kicking this crochet-along off with 2 Parts!

Sophie’s Universe Part 1 {Photo Tutorial}

©Chris Simon and Dedri Uys 2014. All Rights Reserved.

The first 6 rounds of this Mandala were heavily inspired by Chris Simon’s Lace Petals Square (Block 16 of the Block a Week CAL 2014). In fact, if you take away the front post stitches and back loop stitches, it is an unashamed copy of Chris’ gorgeous design.  So before I could even think about publishing this pattern, I had to get Chris’ permission to use her centre. Luckily she agreed. Thank you very much, Chris!

Resources

• Add this CAL to your Ravelry Queue
• Sophie’s Universe CAL 2015 Information
• Use the Print-friendly button at the bottom (right) of this post to print/save this tutorial.  Don’t know how? Find out HERE.
• **Part 1 VIDEO TUTORIAL** by Esther Dijkstra from It’s All in a Nutshell

Translations

• Dutch Translation by Dianne Baan
• German Translation by Gabriele Rogers
• Spanish Translation by Lynda Hernandez
• Danish Translation by Tina Poulsen
• Finnish Translation by Sari Åström
• French Translation by Sandra Larvin (with Video Tutorials by Géraldine Cymer)
• Russian Translation (with Videos) by Natalie V. Alimpieva
• Swedish CAL Information by Emma Vingqvist, Agnetha Magnusson, Åza Karlsson, and Ulrika Larsson
• Arabic Video Tutorial by Banan Felimban

Materials and Colours

For the purposes of this tutorial, I am using Scheepjeswol Cotton 8 (available from Deramores) and a 3.25 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook (US D/3  UK 10).  

Remember to check the Helpful Tips before starting.  There is some important information about adjusting your hook size to prevent bulging.

Colour Packs for Sophie’s Universe

If you are interested in the colour packs for Sophie, you can find them below.

Wool Warehouse

• Cotton 8 (Small)
• Softfun (Medium)
• Stonewashed XL (Large)
• **NEW** Colour Crafter Pack (Medium) – You can find the details HERE.

Deramores  

• Cotton 8 (Small)
• Softfun (Medium)
• Stonewashed XL (Large)

Colours Per Round for Part 1

	Cotton 8	Softfun	Stonewashed XL
Round 1	Canary	Canary	Moonstone
Round 2	Light Pink	Light Rose	Amazonite
Round 3	Pink	Rose	Green Agate
Round 4	Fuchsia	Bordeaux	Blue Apatite
Round 5	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Moonstone
Round 6	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Moonstone
Round 7	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Moonstone
Round 8	Canary	Light Blue	Moonstone

Abbreviations

US Terminology used (US/UK comparison chart HERE)

• BLO – Back loop only
• Bpsc – Back post single crochet
• Ch – Chain
• Dc – Double crochet
• Fpdc – Front post double crochet
• Fpsc – Front post single crochet
• Hdc – Half-double crochet
• Sc – Single crochet
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• St/st’s – Stitch/stitches
• * – Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
• () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.

Special Stitches

• Standing Stitches:  Standing sc’s, hdc’s, and dc’s are stitches used to start the round without the need for the traditional beginning chain. Links to tutorials are supplied in each relevant round.

Invisible Join

If you would like to use the invisible join instead of the sl st join at the end of each round, you can find a step-by-step photo tutorial HERE. If you DO decide to use it, make very sure that you understand which stitch to join to and which stitch to start your new round in, otherwise your blanket is going to come out all wonky!

Instructions

Round 1

Into a magic ring: ch 4 (this counts as your first dc and ch 1) and then make a dc {Photo 1}.  (Ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc ) five times {Photos 2 – 4}. Ch 2 and join to the third st of the beginning ch-4 with a sl st.

If you are not familiar with working into a magic ring, this video tutorial by Tamara from Moogly is very good. Please remember, when working into a magic ring you HAVE to work away your initial tail very well. If you just cut it, your whole project might unravel!

Stitch Count: 12 dc’s, 6 ch-2 spaces and 6 ch-1 spaces

Round 2

• If you are going to use the same colour for Round 2, sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 and sc in the same space.
• If you are going to use a new colour for Round 2, join your new yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-1 space around {Photo 1}.

(Make 5 dc’s in the next ch-2 space {Photo 2}, sc in the next ch-1 space {Photo 3}) five times. Make 5 dc’s in the last ch-2 space {Photo 4}.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 30 dc’s and 6 sc’s {6 Petals}

Round 3

• If you are using the same colour, ch 1 and make a fpsc around the post of the same sc.
• If you are using a new colour, join your new colour with a fpsc around the post of any sc from the previous round. You will make the fpsc exactly the same as the standing single crochet, but working around the post of the stitch instead of into the top 2 loops {Photos 1 and 2}.

*(Dc, ch 1) in the next 4 dc’s. Dc in the last dc {Photo 3}.  Fpsc in the next sc {Photo 4}.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times, omitting the last fpsc on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.

If you started with a standing fpsc, you might find it tricky to join to it with a sl st. Pull the beginning tail of yarn so that you can see the top loops of the stitch. If you cannot manage to poke your hook through both loops, you are more than welcome to join to the FLO of the standing fpsc.

You should now have 6 Petals.  Each Petal should contain 5 dc’s and 4 ch-1 spaces.  There should be one FPsc between Petals.

Stitch Count: 30 dc’s, 6 fpsc’s, and 24 ch-1 spaces {6 Petals}

Round 4

Round 4 is simple, but you have to concentrate! I had to frog this round a few times because I either forgot the ch-1′s or I made the stitches in the wrong spots.  At the end of this round your flower will probably buckle.  Don’t worry about it!  See Photo 4 below.

• If you are using the same colour, ch 1 and fpsc around the post of the same fpsc as the sl st join.
• If you are using a new colour, start with a fpsc around the post of any fpsc around {Photo 1}.

*Hdc in the first dc. This first dc might be slightly tricky to get into because it is right next to the fpsc. (Ch 1, dc in the next dc, ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 space) twice.  Ch 1 and dc in the next dc {Photo 2}.  Ch 1 and hdc in the last dc.  Fpsc in the next fpsc {Photo 3}.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times, omitting the last fpsc on the last repeat.  Join to the first fpsc with a sl st.  Fasten off and change colours.

Stitch Counts:

• Total: 48 st’s and 36 ch-1 spaces {6 fpsc’s, 12 hdc’s, 30 dc’s, and 36 ch-1 spaces}
• Per Petal: 2 hdc’s, 5 dc’s, and 6 ch-1 spaces per petal {1 fpsc between petals}

Round 5

You will not be working into the hdc’s in this round. In other words, you will skip the first and last st of every petal, which will be the hdc’s.

Join your new yarn by making a standing single crochet around the back of the post of the last dc of any petal around {Photos 1 and 2}. Phew…I say “of” a lot in that sentence! Hehe. You are basically starting with a standing back post sc.

*Ch 2 and fpdc around the post of the fpsc between the petals. (Ch 2, bpsc around the post of the next dc) 5 times.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times. Omit the last bpsc of the last repeat. Join to the first bpsc with a sl st.

Stitch Counts:

• Total: 30 bpsc’s, 6 fpdc’s, and 36 ch-2 spaces
• Per Petal: 5 bpsc’s and 6 ch-2 spaces per petal, and 1 fpdc between petals

Round 6

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next ch-2 space. Ch 5 (this counts as the first dc plus ch-2) and dc in the next ch-2 space. These 2 dc’s should fall on either side of the fpdc from the previous round {Photo 1}.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the next ch-2 space. Ch 2 and dc in the next ch-2 space. These 2 dc’s should fall on either side of the fpdc from the previous round {Photo 1}.

*Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space. (Ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 space) twice. Ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 space. (Ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 space) twice {Photo 2}.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times.

Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space. (Ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 space) twice. Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space. Ch 2 and join to the third ch of the beginning ch-5 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Notice that the dc’s fall on either side of the fpdc’s from the previous round {Photo 2}.  Notice also that I am using yellow in Photos 1 and 2 so that you can see the stitch placement better.

Stitch Count: 36 st’s and 36 ch-2 spaces {12 sc’s, 12 hdc’s, 12 dc’s and 36 ch-2 spaces}

Round 7

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next ch-2 space. Ch 1 and make 2 sc’s in the same ch-2 space.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the next ch-2 space and then make another sc in the same ch-2 space.

Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-2 space.  Make 3 sc’s in the next ch-2 space.  *Make 2 sc’s in each of the next 2 ch-2 spaces, make 3 sc’s in the next ch-2 space.*  Repeat from * to * 10 more times.  Join to the BLO of the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 84 sc’s

Count your stitches!

Round 8

You will be working in the back loops only (BLO) for this round.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc).
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing hdc in the BLO of the same st as the sl st join. {Photo 1}

Hdc in the BLO of the next 5 st’s and make 2 hdc’s in the BLO of the next st {Photo 2}. *Hdc in the BLO of the next 6 st’s, make 2 hdc’s in the BLO of the next st.* Repeat from * to * 10 more times.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or the standing hdc) with a sl st.

Stitch Count: 96 hdc’s (worked into the BLO)

There!  Now that wasn’t so hard, was it?

If you want to check your gauge, this is an excellent time to do it.  Refer to the Gauge listed HERE to check if you are on the right track.

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