Let me introduce you to my Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball. I can hype it up and tell you that your kids will have endless hours of fun playing with this puzzle ball, but the truth is that I have a lot more fun with this puzzle ball than my kids do (although they DO love it). The minute someone walks into my house I practically force it on them! And what fun it is watching people try to assemble it. Of course, it only takes them a little while to figure it out because it IS pretty simple.
Update January 2022: I have updated the pattern for the puzzle ball. The pattern remains the same*, just easier to follow and with better photos.
*I have changed the recommended hook from a 4mm to a 4.5mm, and I have changed the recommended yarn from a double-knit to a worsted weight.
I designed this ball in 2011 and shared it in 2012 when the little mister above was not even a year old.
Ten years later, my boys still LOVE playing with their original (pink) ball.
Ten years later, I am still as passionate as ever about sharing patterns in a way that makes them as easy as possible (within my means) to follow.
What a wonderful decade this has been!
This Amish Puzzle Ball comes apart into three segments which have to be assembled to form the ball.
The chunky design means that it is super easy for little hands to grab hold of. And the million colour possibilities make it a treat for little eyes and inquisitive minds.
Bonus: If you are at all concerned about the apparent amount of sewing involved, let me put your mind at ease. All the segments are crocheted together at the end, and the ends are enclosed INSIDE the ball (if you follow my advice), leaving you with 3 tiny ends to sew away. That’s right! Three itty bitty bouts of sewing. I think that’s pretty awesome!
Thank you, Tannie Esther, for sending me the link to the fabric Amish puzzle ball and starting me on this journey!
Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball Pattern
Dedri Uys ©2011. Updated 2022. Charts by Masako Kawahara. All Rights Reserved.
Resources
- Add This Pattern to your Ravelry Queue
- Hashtag: Please use #amishpuzzleball so that we can see your photos.
- Video Tutorial by Elizzza from www.knitaholics.com:
- Part 1
- Part 2
- Part 3
- Please note that Elizzza turns her wedges inside out before attaching them to the lids. I prefer not to turn them inside out. Keeping the seam on the outside makes it easier to attach the wedges to the lids AND it helps the wedges interlock slightly better when the ball is assembled.
- Translations (Original):
- Danish Translation by Marianne Topping from Tulle Momsemor
- Dutch Translation by the ‘Haak Met Ons Mee’ Facebook Group.
- French Translation by Olivia from Chez Olivia
- German Translation Maja Heidingsfelder
- Italian Translation by Elisa Aliforni
- Japanese Translation by Masako Kawahara from Crochet Hmmm
- Polish Translation by Aga Ta
- Russian Translation by Olga Morkova
- Slovak Translation by Andrea Laca
- Spanish Translation by Ana from Hasta el Monyo
- Swedish Translation by Sofia from Fittforcefive
If you prefer a formatted ad-free US PDF version of this pattern (both Photo Tutorial with Charts and Written-only), you can buy it in my Ravelry Store HERE or in my Etsy Shop HERE.
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- 4.5mm hook
- Scissors
- Yarn Needle
- Fiberfill stuffing
- Scheepjes Stonewashed XL (50g/75m, 70% Cotton/30% Acrylic)
- Colour 1: Smokey Quartz (842) x 2 balls
- Colour 2: Turquoise (864) x 1 ball
- Colour 3: Beryl (873) x 1 ball
- Scheepjes Riverwashed XL (50g/75m, 70% Cotton/30% Acrylic)
- Colour 4: Amazon (991) x 1 ball
Useful Information
I used:
- 70.5g of yarn for 12 wedges
- 8g of yarn for each ‘chain of lids’
- 14g for joining
- 50g of stuffing
Size
15 cm (6″) in diameter
Gauge
It is important that you work as tight as you can so that your stuffing doesn’t show through your stitches.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used.
- Ch – Chain
- Sc – Single Crochet
- Sc2tog – Single crochet two together
- Sl st – Slip Stitch
- St/sts – Stitch/stitches
- () – Repeat all instructions between parentheses the number of times specified.
Notes
- The initial ch st in each row does not count as a st.
- Ensure that you stuff the segments very well (more than you think you need to) – see Tips at the end of the pattern.
Instructions
Wedges
(Make 12 in Colour 1)
These wedges are worked in rows and joined with a seam. If you would rather make seamless (spiral) wedges, see the Instructions for the Star Ball.
Row 1: Ch 2, make 3 sc in the second ch from the hook, turn. (3)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, turn. (6)
Row 3: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 3 times, turn. (9)
Row 4: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) 3 times, turn. (12)
Row 5: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) 3 times, turn. (15)
Row 6: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) 3 times, turn. (18)
Row 7: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) 3 times, turn. (21)
Row 8: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) 3 times, turn. (24)
Row 9: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts) 3 times, turn. (27)
Row 10: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts) 3 times, ch 1, do not turn {Photo 1}. (30)
Fold the half-circle in half so that the end containing the hook is closest to you {Photo 2}. Insert your hook into the first row down the side of the resulting wedge (through both layers – see Photo 3) and make a sc. Make 8 more sc, working into each row down the side and through both layers. Remember to put your initial yarn end INSIDE the wedge before closing it completely. When you get to the end, ch 1 and fasten off {Photo 4}.
To eliminate the final yarn end, insert your hook into one of the stitches at the pointy end of the wedge (from the inside of the wedge to the outside – see Photo 5) and pull the end through to the inside of the wedge {Photo 6}.
If you want to, you can turn the resulting wedge inside-out so that you don’t end up with a seam. I personally prefer (and recommend) the seam as it helps the Puzzle Ball to interlock better when assembled.
Chain of “lids”
(Make 3 – one in each of Colours 2, 3, and 4)
Row 1: Ch 2, make 2 sc in the second ch from the hook, turn. (2)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (2)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, turn. (4)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (4)
Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in the last st, turn. (6)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (6)
Rows 7-9: As Row 6.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (4)
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (4)
Row 12: Ch 1, sc2tog twice, turn. (2)
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (2)
Row 14: Ch 1, sc2tog, don’t fasten off!
Repeat rows 1 – 14 THREE more times. This will give you a chain of 4 “lids”.
On the very last “lid” of the chain, ch 1 and fasten off.
Hint: If you are going to use the “lid” colour (so the same colour) to attach the wedges to the lids, don’t fasten off. Just continue with the assembly instructions below.
Assembling the segments
You will be attaching 4 wedges to each chain of lids, working up the chain of lids on one side and then down the other side, stuffing as you go. You will be working into each st of the wedge opening and each row of the chain of lids.
See Tips below if you are unsure about the placement of the stitches in the rows of the lids.
With a Colour 1 slip knot already on your hook, place your first
wedge behind the first lid on the right (with the sc seam of the wedge to your right – left, if you are left-handed) and insert your crochet hook through the first st of the chain of “lids” and the first st of the opening of one of the wedges {Photo 1}. Make a sc through both layers. Make 14 more sc, working into each row of the lid and each stitch of the wedge {Photo 2}.
Join the next wedge to its lid in the same way {Photo 3} and continue until you have attached one side of each of the 4 wedges and lids. You may wish to mark the last sc with a stitch marker so that you can find it easily when sewing the ends of the segment together.
Now you will be “closing” the wedges. Insert your hook into the same (last) st of the fourth lid and the next st of the fourth wedge and make a sc. Continue working through both layers as before, making 15 sc along the other side of each wedge and lid {Photo 4}, and stuffing as you go {Photo 5}.
When you reach the last st of the first wedge, join to the first st with a sl st and fasten off, leaving a 10cm/4” end. Use the end to sew the tips of the first and last wedges together thoroughly {Photo 6}.
Alternatively, you can sl st them together before fastening off, which is what I prefer. To do that, simply sl st in sts 16 and 15 of the sts around the top of the 4th wedge (in that order), so the stitches at the pointy end, and then sl st in the first and second sts of the first wedge. Fasten off and work away your ends.
You have now completed one segment.
Repeat for the remaining 2 segments.
Tips
Having Trouble Lining up the Lids and Wedges?
Although the lids only have 14 rows, there are 15 “holes” along the side of each lid. This is because the ch st you work the first row into also forms a hole. So, in essence, you are working into that ch st and then into each of the 14 rows. I have included a numbered photo below to help explain this. It is numbered starting from the sc2tog of Row 14, where you will start attaching the lid to its wedge, to the initial ch st of Row 1, and then back again around the bottom of the lid. I hope this eliminates a few questions.
A word about Stuffing
This ball EATS stuffing! I have noticed that people tend to think they have overstuffed the ball because the wedges are quite fat and the segments are super snug. The ball will stretch over time, and to get the best results you want to stuff it nice and full! If you use too little stuffing, the segments won’t interlock well and the ball is more likely to become lifeless after a lot of playing. If your tension is a bit loose and you find your stuffing poking through your stitches, you may find this Stuffing Bomb Tutorial useful.
Building your Amish Puzzle Ball
When your segments are all nicely stuffed and neatly finished off, slip one segment over the other segment so that they form a cross.
Slip the third segment over both of these segments, slotting the wedges into the holes around the side of the cross. If you need more help, you can watch THIS YouTube Clip.
Related Free Crochet Patterns
- Crochet Flower Puzzle Ball
- Olive the Crochet Octopus Puzzle
- Pumpkin Segment Ball
- Mini Amish Puzzle Ball
- Star Ball
- Harlequin Puzzle Ball by Projectarian
Related Book
FAQ’s
Q: Can you work the wedges in a spiral instead of in rows and thus avoid the seam?
A: Yes, you can. But again, the seam helps the wedges interlock slightly better when the ball is assembled. You can find a pattern for seamless wedges HERE.
Q: How much should I stuff the wedges/ball?
A: You need to stuff it enough so that the wedges bulge slightly, but not so much that the stitches stretch and become “holey”. It doesn’t matter if your 3 segments seem quite snug. In fact, you want them to be quite snug. After a while, the segments will relax and if you haven’t stuffed your ball enough, it will become limp and lifeless.
Q: Help! My lids are too small for my wedges!
All yarns are NOT created equal. So if you are going to use scrap yarn for your ball, or even if you use two different types of yarn, there is going to be a variation in your gauge. When using different types of yarn (even if they appear to be the same thickness), make sure that the yarn you use for your lids is as thick as the yarn you use for the wedges. The yarn you use for the lids can even be a little bit thicker than the yarn you use for the wedges – within reason. The wedges are more elastic than the lids.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact me and I will try my best to answer them to your satisfaction.
This blog post contains affiliate links. I only link to products I personally use or would use. All opinions are my own.
Kade says
Hi, may I ask if I can use a 4.5mm Crochet Hook instead? Thanks!
Dedri Uys says
Yes you can, but your tension won’t be as tight if you use a 4.5 mm hook with double knit yarn. I would use a 4.5 with worsted weight/aran.
bodynsoil says
I haven’t made this pattern but plan to start it today. Thank you for this pattern.
Dedri Uys says
You’re welcome :)
denise21 says
Thank you for this tuto. I ‘ll try it for the baby of a friend of mine. i’ll tell you later when it’s done !
Merci merci merci pour ce partage !!
joanne rose says
I am most anxious to attempt your design.
I have question of yarn though. I would like to use a 100% cotton like Lilly & Cream or similar. What do you think of the option? Other yarns may fuse if close to mouth is my thought.
Love your designs.
Appreciatively Jo
Dedri Uys says
Hi Joanne. Cotton makes a wonderful sturdy puzzle ball, but due to its lack of elasticity, the ball will require elbow grease to build.
Dii says
Thank you for the pattern!
You can see the results at my blog.
http://laan50.blogspot.nl/2017/01/puzzel-bal.html
Alice says
After finishing the first lid and when beginning the second one do you chain 1 and turn to start lid 2 or just continue with the second lid?
Dedri Uys says
Each lid starts with a chain 2.
After the sc2tog of Row 14 of the first lid, you will start again at Row 1 with “Ch 2. Sc inc in the second ch from the hook. Ch 1 and turn. (2)”
Does that help?
Alice says
Thank you Dedri. That helped.
Dedri Uys says
Great!
Alice says
My problem is attaching the lids. When I start attaching the lid to the second wedge should the chain 2 be attached to the first wedge or the next one?
Dedri Uys says
Hi Alice. Each lid starts with a ch-2 where you then work into the second chain from the hook to make your next row. The second chain (that you worked into) will form the first ‘hole’ that needs to be worked into when attaching each wedge. So when you have attached your first wedge, the first stitch of the second wedge should fall in this ‘hole’ of the second lid and in the first st of the next wedge. I hope that makes sense. If it doesn’t, please use the contact me tab at the top of this page to send me an email and we can take it from there.
Kira says
I love the puzzle ball, and far from being mind-numbing, it is addictive! Thank you.
Thatcher says
I have all the peices but i also want to make the body of the octopus
Dedri Uys says
Hi. You can find the free pattern for the octopus here.
LV says
I’m working on this now but I have a question. When doing the lids, what does “sc2tog” mean? I’m unsure of the terminology. Thank you so much!
LV says
Nevermind! I figured it out. Thanks!
Dedri Uys says
Sc2tog is single crochet 2 together or single crochet decrease.
Madawi says
I love it may Allah loves you and choose the heavens for you and your beloved
EV says
Hi! I am making this now and there is a small gap when I count 9 SC closing my wedge. Should it be 10 SC? There are 10 hopes up each side.
Dedri Uys says
Hi, you are welcome to make 10. I usually leave the last row free, because you will work into those stitches when attaching the lids to the wedges. But you may certainly work into them if you feel you need to :)
Dani says
Thanks :) This is a brilliant pattern- one of the most creative toy patterns I have ever seen! I made one for my nephew (albeit it isn’t as perfect as yours, however I hope he’ll enjoy it nonetheless) as a playful alternative to chocolate Easter eggs.
Denise says
I’m having trouble making the lids. I keep getting gaps on the sides of the lids when increasing. I’ve always done more rounded amigurumi type things before, so this diamond shape has me stumped. What might I be doing wrong when increasing?
I’m really excited to make tons of these for all my friends’ kids!
-Maybe I’ll keep the first one for myself ;-)
Dedri Uys says
Hi Denise. I am sending you an email. You can reply to that with a photo and I will see if I can help you?
sandie says
I made the Amish puzzle ball and took it on my bus (I am a bus driver) to show another driver. When my kids got on several tried putting the puzzle together they had such a great time. I had to tell them points down. Thanks for your free pattern. Now onto your elephant hope she is as easy. I am making these for my Two great grandsons
Dedri Uys says
How fun, Sandie. I wish my bus driver was half as nice as you are! Once you have made the basic ball, the elephant isn’t hard.
Tammy G says
I made this ball. It took me a lot longer than planned but I have arthritis in my thumbs so could only do 1-2 wedges at a time. Very happy with the result, everybody loves it.
Thanks for the pattern and great instructions (pictures are always helpful).
Jenny says
Dedri’s patterns are the best, aren’t they? Glad you like the ball, Tammy :)
Alice Adams says
When making the lids when you start the second one do you chain and turn to start the second one or just chain 2 and then start again? Not sure if I chain one, turn and then chain 2 and proceed with the instructions, I am in the process of doing my third puzzle ball and not sure I am doing the lids correctly. I love making them.
Dedri Uys says
Hi Alice. It doesn’t matter if you turn or don’t turn. After you have made the sc2tog of Row 14, you immediately ch 2 and then sc inc in the second chain from the hook (which is Row 1 again).
Dedri
Julie says
I’ve just started making one of your Amish balls. I love the amamani and have ordered your book so that I can try to make those. I know so many children that would love one and because they are super unique, I doubt that anyone else will be giving them one for Christmas! Can’t wait for you to publish more books. Thanks heaps for the free patterns to allow us to get a taste.
Happy crafting from New Zealand.
P.s. I plan on trying out the kiwi amamani for a friend expecting her first child. She works with kiwi in a conservation role.
Anju says
I just completed my 1st Amish ball and am so pleased. Thank you for sharing the pattern. I was so excited till the whole thing came together. Wish I could share the pics.
thank you.
Jenny says
You could post pics on the Fecbook page or use a hosting site like photobucket and choose the [img][/img] tags to post a reply here :)
Mickey says
I am planning on making your puzzle ball for my grandson who will be born in the next few weeks and another for his cousin who is now 3days old! If I use light worsted and a smaller hook will it be as dense as with worsted just smaller? Is that too small?
Jenny says
I can’t tell you if it will be too small, Mickey, but it will be as dense but in a more compact form :)
margaret says
Just completed 2 Amish puzzle balls, they are amazing. I am not a very experienced crochet person but your instructions were very easy to follow. Thank you
Dedri Uys says
Thank you, Margaret ;)