Bonus Block 2 of the Block a Week CAL (hosted by Kimberly Slifer) is Melissa Green’s Posie Field.  The central flower is textured, yet delicate, and I just love her use of popcorn stitches and post stitches in this square.

Posie Field Crochet Square

{Pattern © 2013 Melissa Green.  Photo tutorial done with kind permission}

Pattern

Available as a Free Ravelry Download.

Suggested Materials

• 5.5 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook (US I/9  UK 5)
• Worsted weight yarn

Size

• Using the hook and yarn specified, your square should be a nice even 12″ when you are done.
• Using a 4 mm crochet hook (US G/6  UK 8) and double knit yarn, as I have done, your finished square will be about 8.5″ big.

 

My Yarn and Colour Choices

I am using Stylecraft Special DK.

• Saffron (Rounds 1 – 3, and 10)
• Fondant (Round 4, 11, and 12)
• Pomegranate (Rounds 5, 6, and 14)
• Magenta (Rounds 7 and 13)
• Lavender (Rounds 8 and 9)

Notes

US Crochet Terminology used.  (See this comparative chart if you need help transcribing from US to UK)

Special Stitches

• Cluster stitches – see this Bobble Stitch tutorial (same stitch, different name)
• Popcorn stitches – see this tutorial
• V-stitches – (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same st

Corrections

Round 4:  On the very last repeat (in the written pattern), the ch st before the “sc in next pfdc” has been omitted.  It should read:  “…(ch 1, sc in the next dc) twice, ch 1, sc in the next fpdc, ch 3, join in beg sc.”

Round 7:  The asterisks that indicate where the repeat begins and ends have been left out (see Round 7 below).

Round 12:  In round 12 you are told to work into the dc’s from the previous round.  This should be hdc’s as the previous round was an hdc round.  Also, you need to skip the first 2 st’s of each side, not only the first st (which is well and truly hidden).

Posie Field Square Photo Tutorial

This photo-walkthrough is NOT the actual pattern and should not be used instead of the pattern, but rather in conjunction with it.

Thank you very much to Melissa Green for giving us permission to do this photo-tutorial for her Posie Field Square.  And a special thank you to Kimberly Slifer for letting me do these tutorials and for obtaining the necessary permission.

Rounds 1 – 3

See this tutorial for step-by-step help with Rounds 1 – 3.

At the end of Round 3 you should have 24 dc’s and 12 fpdc’s.

Round 4

This round is worked in the front loops only (flo)!  You will need to work into the back loops in the next round.  I’m just saying…

• If you are using the same colour, sl st in the flo of the next 2 st’s.  The last sl st should fall in the top of the next fpdc.  Ch 1 and sc in the flo of the same st.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the flo of any fpdc around (Photos 1 and 2).

*(Ch 1, sc in the flo of the next dc) twice.  Ch 1 (Photo 3).  (Sc, ch 3, sc) in the flo of the next fpdc  (Photo 4).*  Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last sc on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.

Stitch count:  60 sc’s, 48 ch-1 spaces, and 12 ch-3 spaces

And here she is all done.  This is just a decorative round, so if you find yourself having missed a stitch or two, don’t worry about it too much.

Round 5

In this round you will be working into the back loops only (blo) from Round 3, so behind the ruffled stitches of Round 4.

Join your new yarn by making a standing double crochet in the blo of any fpdc from Round 3.   Ch 1 and dc in the same blo.  This is your first V-st made (Photo 1).  (Ch 2, V-st in the blo of the next fpdc) 11 times.  Ch 2 and then join to the top of the standing double crochet with a sl st.

Identifying the stitches to work into:

If you fold Round 4 forward, you want to work into the back loop behind the (sc, ch 3, sc) pointy bit from Round 4 (arrow in Photo 2).

Stitch count: 12 V-st’s and 12 ch-2 spaces

Round 6

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next ch-1 space.  Make a beginning cluster (you can see this tutorial).
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a sl st in any ch-1 space around.  Make a beginning cluster (see this tutorial).  Photo 1 shows the beginning cluster completed.

Ch 2  (Photo 2).  Sc in the next ch-2 space (Photo 3).  Ch 2.  *Make a cluster in the next V-st (so in the ch-1 space between the dc’s of the V-st) – see Photo 4.  Ch 2.  Sc in the next ch-2 space.  Ch 2.*  Repeat around and join as instructed in the pattern.

Stitch counts:  12 Clusters, 12 sc’s, and 24 ch-2 spaces

This is what your “square” should look like at the end of Round 6.

Round 7

Join your yarn by making a beginning popcorn in any sc around (Photo 1).  Ch 3 and sc in the top of the next cluster.  Ch 3 (Photo 2).  *Make a popcorn in the next sc.  Ch 3 (Photo 4).  Sc in the top of the next cluster.  Ch 3.*  Repeat from * to * 10 more times.  Join to the top of the beginning popcorn with a sl st.

Stitch counts:  12 popcorns, 12 sc’s, and 24 ch-3 spaces

Popcorns :)

Round 8

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next ch-3 space.  Ch 3 (counts as first dc) and make 2 dc’s in the same ch-3 space.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the ch-3 space before any sc around.  Make 2 more dc’s in the same ch-3 space (Photo 1).

*(Dc, tr, dc) in the next sc (Photo 2).  Make 3 dc’s in the next ch-3 space.  Make 3 hdc’s in the next ch-3 space (which will be the ch-3 space after the popcorn).  Hdc in the next sc (Photo 3).  (Make 3 sc in the next ch-3 space) twice.  These two groups of 3 sc’s should fall on either side of the next popcorn (Photo 4).  Hdc in the next sc (Photo 5).  Make 3 hdc’s in the next ch-3 space.  Make 3 dc’s in the next ch-3 space (Photo 5).*

Repeat from * to * three more times, omitting the last 3 dc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the standing double crochet with a sl st.

Stitch counts:  

• Per Side:  22 st’s per side, not including the corner trebles
• Total:  92 st’s  {4 tr’s, 32 dc’s, 32 hdc’s, and 24 sc’s}

Starting to look like a square…

Round 9

As written.  Where the pattern tells you to dc in each st across, you will make a dc in each of the next 20 st’s, because you will be skipping the last dc.

Stitch count:  96 dc’s and 12 ch-1 spaces – including the 4 ch-1 corner spaces  {24 st’s per side}

Round 10

In this round you will again be working into the front loops only (flo).  Where instructed to work into the skipped dc from Round 8, do not work OVER the ch-1 space of Round 9.

Work IN FRONT OF the ch-1 space of Round 9.

Join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in any corner space.  Ch 1 and sc in the same space.

*Ch 1.  Skip the first dc and sc in the flo of the next dc.  Dc in the skipped dc from Round 8 (Photo 1), remembering to work in front of the ch-1 space from Round 9.  Sc in the flo of the next 3 dc’s (Photo 2).  (Ch 2, skip the next dc and sc in the flo of the next dc) 3 times (Photo 3).  Sc in the flo of the next 3 dc’s (Photo 4).  (Ch 2, skip the next dc and sc in the flo of the next dc) 3 times (Photo 5).  Sc in the flo of the next 2 dc’s (Photo 6).  Dc in the skipped dc from Round 8 (Photos 7 and 8).  Sc in the flo of the next dc.  Ch 1 and skip the next dc.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next corner space.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last sc on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the standing sc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  8 dc’s, 72 sc’s, 24 ch-2 spaces, and 8 ch-1 spaces (not including corner ch-1 spaces).

Goodness, that took a bit of concentration!

Round 11

As written.

You are working into Round 10 to make the corners and into the blo of Round 9 for the sides.  You want to make 26 hdc’s per side (not including the corner hdc’s).  The 3d and 24th hdc’s (0f these 26 hdc’s) will fall in the ch-1 spaces in Round 9 (behind the textured stitches of Round 10).

Stitch count:  120 hdc’s and 4 ch-2 corner spaces.  {30 hdc’s per side}

Round 12

As written, BUT…

This whole round tells you to work into the dc’s from the previous round.  It should actually say the hdc’s from the previous round.

Where the pattern tells you to skip the first dc, you need to skip the first 2 hdc’s.  In other words, you need to skip the hidden hdc (which is well and truly hidden) AND the next hdc.

Stitch count:  112 dc’s, 20 ch-1 space, and 4 ch-2 corner spaces  {28 dc’s and 5 ch-1 spaces per side}

Round 13

As written.

When making the popcorns into the skipped stitches from Round 11, work IN FRONT OF the ch-1 space (Photos 1 – 3).

When making the tr’s into the skipped stitches from Round 11, work BEHIND the ch-1 space (Photos 5 and 6).

Stitch count:  148 st’s and 4 ch-2 corners {37 st’s per side – 32 hdc’s, 2 tr’s, and 3 popcorns}

Round 14

This is a sc round, but I have made it a hdc round to get it to get to my required size.

As written.

When told to sc in each st across, this will be each of the next 37 st’s.

Stitch count:  164 st’s and 4 ch-2 corners  {41 st’s per side – 37 st’s between corners}

 

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Happy Hooking!