This Frenzied Crochet Potholder could also be used as a trivet.  The use of front post stitches yields a lovely, dense fabric that has got tons of texture.  I just love playing with front post stitches, but I know that they can be daunting to some people.  With this step-by-step tutorial, however, I am hoping that even a moderate beginner will be able to tackle (and master) them with ease.

Like most of my patterns, this potholder has dreams of one day becoming something bigger than just a potholder.  So if you are lucky, you might see it morph into something else in the not-too-distant future.

Update:  You can now find the ‘grown-up’ version of this pattern HERE as the King Protea Mandala.

Front Post Frenzy Potholder Photo Tutorial

©Dedri Uys 2014.  All Rights Reserved.

Resources

• Add the pattern to your Ravelry Queue
• I am very excited to tell you that this pattern is now also available as a Podcast by Underground Crafter.
• If you would like to print this pattern, use the PrintFriendly button below the post.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Gauge

Using worsted weight yarn and dc stitches:

8 rows and 20 st’s per 4” (10 cm) square.

Size

7.5” (19 cm) in diameter.

Materials

• 4 mm crochet hook (US G/6  UK 8)
• Worsted weight yarn or double knit yarn (light worsted weight) – approx. 65 m/ 71 yards
• Yarn Needle

I used DROPS Paris Cotton in the same 5 shades that I used for Sophie’s Mandala (Small) and my Cable Stitch Dishcloth (pictured above).

Abbreviations

US Terminology used (US/UK comparison chart here)

• Dc – Double crochet
• Fpdc – Front post double crochet
• Fpdtr  – Front post double treble
• Fptr – Front post treble crochet
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• St/s – Stitch/stitches
• *  – Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified.  This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
• () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified.  This is a lower level repeat.

Notes

• The initial ch st’s in each round are counted as a stitch.
• In this pattern, most of the increases will be made by working into the top of a specific stitch (in other words, through both loops as you normally would) AND around the posts of that same stitch (where indicated).
• If you want to bookmark a short tutorial for the front post increases used below, see this post, which covers the first 3 rounds found below.

Instructions

Round 1

This round is just a standard double crochet circle.

Into a magic ring:  ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  Make 11 dc’s into the ring. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 with a sl st.

If you are not familiar with working into a magic ring, this video tutorial by Tamara from Moogly is very good.  Please remember, when working into a magic ring you HAVE to work away your initial tail very well.  If you just cut it, your whole project might unravel!

Stitch count:  12 dc’s

Round 2

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) and make a fpdc around the beginning ch-3 of the previous round.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join (Photo 1) and then make a fpdc around the beginning ch-3 of the previous round(Photos 2 – 4) .

(Dc in the blo of the next dc (Photo 5), make a fpdc around the post of the same stitch – see Photo 6) in every stitch around.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st. Photos 7 and 8 show you what your circle should look like at the end of this round.  

Notice that the regular dc’s between front post dc’s are slightly squished down.

Stitch count:  24 st’s  {12 dc’s and 12 fpdc’s} 

Round 3

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join (Photo 1).

*Dc in the next st (which will be the fpdc from the previous round – see Photo 2) and make a fptr around the post of the same stitch (Photos 3 and 4).  Dc in the next st.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times (Photo 5).  Omit the last dc on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

You will notice that the dc’s aren’t squished down.  If anything, they are now “pulling” the fptr’s down to their heigh.  This circle will be the same size as the standard dc circle.

Stitch count:  36 st’s   {24 dc’s and 12 fptr’s}

Round 4

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) and then make a fptr around the beginning ch-3 of the previous round (or the post of the standing double crochet).
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join and then make a fptr around the beginning ch-3 of the previous round (or the post of the same standing double crochet) – indicated with an arrow in Photo 1 and illustrated in Photo 2.

Dc in the next dc (Photo 3), fptr around the post of the next fptr (Photo 4).  *Dc in the next dc, fptr around the post of the same stitch, dc in the next dc, fptr around the post of the next fptr.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count: 48 st’s {24 dc’s and 24 fptr’s}

Round 5

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join (Photo 1).

*Dc in the next st (which will be the fptr from the previous round – see Photo 2) and make a fptr around the post of the same stitch (indicated with an arrow in Photo 2 and illustrated in Photo 3).  Dc in the next dc (Photo 4), fptr around the post of the next fptr (indicated with an arrow in Photo 4 and illustrated in Photo 5), dc in the next dc.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last dc on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Count your stitches at the end of this round!  You are going to be mightily annoyed if you realize later that you’ve goofed up (like I did).

If you are having trouble with Round 5, look at the extra hints below the following photo.

Stitch count:  60 st’s   {36 dc’s and 24 fptr’s}

Having Trouble with Round 5?

Here is another photo of the first repeat.

If you have trouble distinguishing between the normal stitches and the front post stitches, have a look at the bottom of each stitch.  If the bottom of the stitch is flat, it’s a normal stitch.  If the bottom of the stitch looks like a gnarly tree root, knotted around the stitch from the previous round, it’s a front post stitch.

Have a look at the last round of stitches.  Can you tell which ones are normal and which ones are front post stitches?

Round 6

In this round, you will be working into the stitches of Round 4 only where indicated.  The rest of the stitches are all made into Round 5.

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) and then make a fpdtr around the post of the dc in Round 4 directly below the stitch you just worked into.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join (Photo 1) and then make a fpdtr around the post of the dc in Round 4 directly below the stitch you just worked into (indicated with an arrow in Photo 1 and illustrated in Photos 2 and 3).

(Dc in the next dc, fptr around the post of the next fptr) twice- see Photos 4 – 7.  *Dc in the next dc, fpdtr around the post of the dc in Round 4 directly below the stitch you just worked into.  (Dc in the next dc, fptr around the post of the next fptr) twice.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count: 72 st’s {36 dc’s, 24 fptr’s, and 12 fpdtr’s}

Round 7

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next st (which will be the fpdtr).  ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) and then make another dc in the same stitch.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the stitch after the sl st join (which will be the fpdtr).  Then make another dc in the same stitch (Photo 1).

*(Fptr around the post of the next dc – see Photo 2, dc in the next fptr) twice.  Fptr around the post of the next dc (Photo 3).  Make 2 dc’s in the next fpdtr.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 2 dc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count: 84 st’s {48 dc’s and 36 fptr’s}

Round 8

• If you are using the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) and then make a fptr around the beginning ch-3 of the previous round (or the post of the standing double crochet).
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join and then make a fptr around the beginning ch-3 of the previous round (or the post of the same standing double crochet) – see Photos 1 and 2.

(Dc in the next dc, fptr around the post of the next fptr) three times  (Photos 3 – 5).  *Dc in the next dc and make a fptr around the post of the same st.  (Dc in the next dc, fptr around the post of the next fptr) three times.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count: 96 st’s {48 dc’s and 48 fptr’s}

You now have a perfectly functionable potholder which is almost as pretty from the back as it is from the front!

But we are not done yet.  You can now add a scalloped edge to make it look like a frenzied flower :)

Round 9 (Optional)

In this round you will be making decorative scallops.

Join your yarn by making a sl st in any st around.

(Skip the next 2 st’s and make 6 dc’s in the next st.  Skip the next 2 st’s and sl st in the next st) around.  The last sl st should fall in the same st as the first sl st.  Bind off and work away your tails of yarn.

Stitch count:  96 dc’s  {16 6-dc scallops} – sl st’s are not included in the st count.

Thank you to Laurel Brown Spurlin, Claire Martin, Sara Steinberg Kersey, Beth Spaulding, Carolyn Robinson King, Rosanne Van de Peppel, and my mom (Minette Strydom) for testing the pattern for me!

Related Patterns

• Sophie’s Mandala (Small)
• Cable Stitch Dishcloths
• Linen Stitch Dishcloth
• Shell Stitch Dishcloth

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