Rose’s Rebellion is a celebration of spirited defiance and youthful joy – a crochet square that dances to its own rhythm. Inspired by the bold and bright character of Lady Rose from Downton Abbey, this design pairs traditional structure with unexpected colour play, echoing a heart that longed for freedom and beauty on her own terms. Whether you see a flower, a star, or a spark of mischief, may this square remind you to bloom loudly and live brightly.
I designed this square for Granny Square Day 2025, hosted by Simply Crochet Magazine on Instagram. If you aren’t subscribed to Simply Crochet yet, they are currently offering a limited deal with a ‘Granny Square Day Bundle’ for new subscribers. You can read more about that HERE.
Their chosen charity for this year’s Granny Square Day celebration is Melon Mission School, which supports special needs children in Kenya. This charity is very close to their heart, and is visited regularly by a member of their team.
Photo by @travelwithpurpose on Instagram
Melon Mission are in constant need of crochet/knitted blankets/toys for the children, so if you have any crochet/knit items you would like to donate, you can send any contributions (by post) to the following address:
Elizabeth Henderson
The Hawthornes
Bruton Road
Evercreech
Somerset
BA4 6HY
UK
You can find out more about Melon Mission here:
Rose’s Rebellion Square Pattern
© Dedri Uys 2025. All Rights Reserved.
Resources
- Add This Pattern to Your Ravelry Queue
- Video Tutorials:
- Hashtag: #RosesRebellionCrochet
Gauge
At the end of Round 4, the Flower should measure 9cm/3.5” from Point to Point.
Size
21.5cm/8.5″
Materials
- 4 mm crochet hook (US 6/G, UK 8)
- Scheepjes Softfun Rainbow Pack (60% cotton/40% acrylic), 20g/56m/61yds
- Yarn A– Hot Pink (2495)
- Yarn B– Soft Coral (2636)
- Yarn C– Bumblebee (2634)
- Yarn D– Apple (2516)
- Yarn E– Emerald (2605)
- Yarn F– Cool Blue (2603)
- Yarn G– Deep Violet (2515)
- Yarn H– Violet (2519)
- Yarn I– Pink (2480)
Colours per Round
- Rounds 1 and 2 – Yarn A
- Round 3 – Yarn B
- Round 4 – Yarn C
- Rounds 5 to 8 – Yarn D
- Round 9 – Yarn E
- Rounds 10 to 12 – Yarn F
- Round 13 – Yarn D
- Round 14 – Yarn G
- Round 15 – Yarn H
- Round 16 – Yarn I
- Round 17 – Yarn A
Abbreviations
US Terms
- Beg – Beginning
- BLO – Back loop only
- BP – Back post
- Ch – Chain
- Dc – Double crochet
- FP – Front post
- Hdc – Half-double crochet
- Rep – repeat
- Sc – Single crochet
- Sl st – Slip stitch
- Sp/sps – Space/spaces
- St/sts – Stitch/stitches
- Tr – Treble crochet
Punctuation
- * repeat instructions between asterisks the number of times specified.
- () repeat instructions between parentheses the number of times specified.
- [] square brackets are used to indicate stitches to be made in the same st/sp.
Special Stitches
Crossed Double – skip the next st and make a dc in the next st. Working over the last dc made, make a dc in the skipped st.
Puff Stitch – Yarn over and insert your hook into the indicated st/sp. Yarn over and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same st/sp. Yarn over and pull up a long loop) twice. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook. Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch.
Standing Stitch – These stitches are used to start a round without the need for a beg ch. With a slip knot already on your hook, make the stitch as you normally would.
Instructions
Round 1
With Yarn A and working into a magic ring: ch 1, (sc, ch 2) 4 times. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 4 sc and 4 ch-2 sps
Round 2
Into each ch-2 sp: [sl st, ch 2, dc, tr, ch 1, tr, dc, ch 2, sl st]. Fasten off.
Stitch Count: 8 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch-1 sps, and 8 ch-2 sps
Round 3
Join Yarn B by making a standing hdc in the ch-1 sp at the top of any Petal from Round 2, [dc, ch 2, dc, hdc] in the same ch-1 sp.
*Sl st in the BLO of the next 2 sts, the first of which will be hidden. Sl st in the BLO of the next 2 ch, sc in the ch-2 sp from Round 1 that contains the current Petal from Round 2. Sc in the ch-2 sp from Round 1 that contains the next Petal, skip the next ch, sl st in the BLO of the next ch. Sl st in the BLO of the next 2 sts.** [Hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc] in the next ch-1 sp.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Join to the first hdc with a sl st and fasten off.
Stitch Count: 8 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, and 28 BLO sl sts
Round 4
Join Yarn C by making a standing hdc in the ch-2 sp at the top of any Petal from Round 3, [dc, ch 2, dc, hdc] in the same ch-2 sp.
*Skip the next st, sl st in the BLO of the next st, sl st in the BLO of the next 4 sl sts. Skip the next 2 sc, sl st in the BLO of the next 3 sl sts, sl st in the BLO of the next 2 sts.** [Hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc] in the next ch-2 sp.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Join to the first hdc with a sl st and fasten off.
Stitch Count: 8 hdc, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, and 40 BLO sl sts
Round 5
Join Yarn D by making a BPsc around any sc from Round 1 {Photos 1 and 2}. (Ch 2, BPsc around the next sc) 3 times. Ch 2, join to the first BPsc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 4 BPsc and 4 ch-2 sps
Round 6
Into each ch-2 sp: [2 sc, ch 2], join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 8
Round 7
Ch 1, sc in the next sc.
*[Hdc, dc, ch 1, dc, hdc] in the next ch-2 sp, skip the next sc,** sc in the next sc.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 4 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc, and 4 ch-1 sps
Round 8
Ch 1, sc in the same st as the sl st join. Sc in the next st, hdc in the next st.
*[Dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc] in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the next st,** sc in the next 3 sts, hdc in the next st.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Sc in the last st, join to the first sc with a sl st and fasten off.
Stitch Count: 12 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc, 8 tr, and 4 ch-2 sps
Round 9
With Yarn E and starting in any ch-2 sp with a standing st: *[sc, hdc, ch 2, hdc, sc] in the ch-2 sp, skip the next st, make a BLO sl st in the next 8 sts.*
Rep from * to * 3 more times. Join to the first sc with a sl st and fasten off.
Stitch Count: 4 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc, and 4 ch-2 sps
Round 10
This round will pull in a little bit. If you know you make your chains much tighter than your other sts, I suggest going up a hook size for this round only. Otherwise, don’t worry about it!
Join Yarn F by making a standing sc in any ch-2 sp from Round 4.
*Ch 7, sc in the next ch-2 sp from Round 9, ch 7**, sc in the next ch-2 sp from Round 4.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 8 sc and 8 ch-7 sps
Round 11
Ch 1, (FPdc around the next sc, 10 dc in the next ch-7 sp) 8 times. Join to the first FPdc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 80 dc and 8 FPdc
Round 12
Ch 3 (counts as dc), [dc, ch 2, dc] in the next st, which should be the first dc after the FPdc, here and throughout this round.
(Dc in the next 21 sts, [dc, ch 2, dc] in the next st) 3 times. Dc in the last 20 sts. Join to the top of beg ch-3 with a sl st and fasten off.
Stitch Count: 92 dc and 4 ch-2 sps
Round 13
Join Yarn D by making a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, [ch 4, sc, ch 8, sc, ch 4, sc] in the same ch-2 sp.
*Skip the next st, sc in the next 3 sts, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) 8 times, sc in the the last 3 sts.** [Sc, ch 4, sc ch 8, sc, ch 4, sc] in the next ch-2 sp.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Join to the first sc with a sl st and fasten off.
Stitch Count Per Side: 16 sc, 8 ch-1 sps, and 2 ch-4 sps, not including ch-8 corner sps.
Round 14
In this round, you will twist the ch-8 corner sps so that they look like upside-down raindrops before working into them.
Please remember that your Puff sts are closed with a ch!
Join Yarn G by making a standing Puff st in any twisted ch-8 corner sp, ch 1. Working into the same ch-8 sp: (Puff st, ch 1) 3 times. Before you continue, mark the second ch-1 sp of this round with a SM.
*[Puff st, ch 2] in the next ch-4 sp, skip the next 4 sts. [Dc, ch 1] in the next ch-1 sp, [hdc, ch 1] in the next ch-1 sp, ([sc, ch 1] in the next ch-1 sp) 4 times. [Hdc, ch 1] in the next ch-1 sp, dc in the last ch-1 sp. Ch 2, [Puff st, ch 1] in the next ch-4 sp.** Working into the next twisted ch-8 sp: (Puff st, ch 1) 4 times.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Join to the first Puff st with a sl st and fasten off.
Before you continue, take a moment to move the Puff sts in the twisted ch-8 corner sps into the centre of each ch sp. This may be a bit fiddly.
Stitch Count Per Side: 4 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 6 Puff sts, 11 ch-1 sps, and 2 ch-2 sps, not including corner ch-1 sps.
Round 15
Join Yarn H by making a standing dc in the marked ch-1 corner sp. [Dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the same ch-1 sp.
*(2 dc in the next ch-1 sp) twice, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp, (2 dc in the next ch-1 sp) 7 times, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp, (2 dc in the next ch-1 sp) twice.** [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the next ch-1 sp.*
Rep from * to * 2 more times, and from * to ** once. Join to the first dc with a sl st and fasten off.
Stitch Count Per Side: 34 dc, not including ch-2 corner sps.
Round 16
With Yarn I and starting in any corner sp with a standing st: *[2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the corner sp, make 17 Crossed Doubles.*
Rep from * to * 3 more times. Join to the first dc with a sl sts and fasten off.
Stitch Count Per Side: 4 dc and 17 Crossed Doubles, not including ch-2 corner sps.
Round 17
With yarn A and starting in any corner sp with a standing st: *[2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the corner sp, BPdc in the next 38 sts, being mindful when you work around the dc sts that form the Crossed Doubles.*
Rep from * to * 3 more times. Join to the first dc with a sl sts and fasten off.
Stitch Count Per Side: 4 dc and 38 BPdc, not including ch-2 corner sps.
And here she is all done!
I hope you have enjoyed making this square. If you did, you may also enjoy making her sister-square, Daisy’s Bouquet.
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